Olive Magazine

purnell’s

Birmingham

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“Fine dining doesn’t have to be stuffy,” says Sonal Clare, sommelier and restaurant manager of Glynn Purnell’s eponymous Birmingham restaurant. Sonal won Best Sommelier at this year’s GQ Food and Drink Awards – a timely accolade for his 10th year of working at Purnell’s, where he started as a waiter. For the past five years, he has been restaurant manager, during which time he has stamped his personalit­y on the relaxedbut-profession­al service style. Sonal has also curated the Book of Wine, a 25-page drinks list that includes a section of wines currently being enjoyed by the staff, as well as vintage champagnes at £3,400 a pop.

“We don’t have linen tablecloth­s or serviettes, but what we try to do is pass on the philosophy, ethos and personalit­y of Glynn through the food and service. People see his fun personalit­y on TV, so that’s what they come to the restaurant for.” With a Michelin star since 2007, Purnell’s has forged a national reputation for its food and service; Sonal says it’s all about adding theatre to a meal. “I don’t see a problem with a bit of romanticis­m or ‘va va voom’ during the dining experience. There’s nothing nicer than a smart and sophistica­ted waiter or waitress attending to your table, and as long as the table chat is genuine and in good nature, then everyone leaves feeling happy. Personalit­ies are very important here at Purnell’s – we certainly aren’t robots who all look and act the same.” purnellsre­staurant.com

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