The lowdown
Cookery writer and ex-professional baker Adam Bush shares his expertise
Cookery writer and ex-professional baker Adam Bush shares his sourdough expertise
In previous issues (October and November 2017, if you want to consult your back catalogue), I’ve explained how to make a sourdough starter, and then how to transform that into bread. Now, with those skills you’ve learnt, here’s a foolproof guide to taking it to the next level. Follow this Lowdown and you’ll learn how to make another easy, flavourpacked dough, using a surprise ingredient, that can be transformed into focaccia, free-form loaves and pizza. Modern commercial yeast was developed in the 19th century, during the Industrial Revolution, to help feed a booming population. It drastically reduced proving times and therefore put bread on the table much faster. Nowadays, though, there’s a certain snobbishness around baker’s yeast – some shun it in favour of the flavour and texture of sourdough (often called ‘real bread’). Instead, sourdough relies on the naturally occurring yeast and bacteria found in flour for its rise.
But added yeast has its place. That light-as-afeather, thin-crusted baguette you have on holiday, won’t be made like sourdough. Focaccia – not sourdough. Ciabatta – not sourdough. That sliced white bread that makes the best bacon sarnie? Not sourdough. Even most sourdough pizzas and supermarket sourdough loaves will likely use a mix of sourdough starter and commercial yeast.
By combining the methods used to make sourdough with a little commercial yeast (1/8 of a tsp, to be precise), we can make some very exciting, and happily, slightly easier breads. It all starts with an overnight pre-ferment known as a ‘poolish’
(a term supposedly inspired by Polish bakers), and the technique arrived in France in the early 20th century. The night before, bakers mix a small amount of yeast with equal parts flour and water, and let it ferment overnight. Utilising the yeast in this way is good for the extensibility (stretchiness) of the dough, because the flour will be highly hydrated; that means the gluten can develop fully, producing nice big holes in the bread and creating a satisfying chew. The yeast will also break down the complex carbs in the flour overnight, releasing more sugars to give a deep caramel crust. As always with bread, more time equates to more flavour.
The recipe opposite, which forms the basis of three different breads, utilises a sourdough starter (which takes a week to cultivate) and commercial yeast. The former lends acid tang and a dark golden colour to the crust, while the yeast gives a rapid rise.