Olive Magazine

Stopover: Vancouver

From vegan pizza to squash custard, it’s all about plant-based cuisine in this chilled Canadian city

- Words ELIZABETH EMERY

From vegan pizza to squash custard, it’s all about plant-based cuisine in this chilled Canadian city

1 From little acorns Head to The Acorn for vegetarian fine dining. Go early to get a table, then order a round of craft cocktails and dishes such as kelp salt-roasted king oyster mushrooms. If you can’t get in, try The Arbor, its younger, more casual spin-off a few doors down. theacornre­staurant.ca 2 Coco gelato The organic coconut-milkbased ices at Umaluma Gelato are a must. Try Drunken Cherry, with bourbonsoa­ked Sicilian cherries and pecans roasted with black pepper and lemon zest; or Panda, a moreish mix of vanilla, chocolate ganache and activated charcoal. umaluma.com 3

Nice slice Fast, delicious and affordable are the operative words at Virtuous Pie, a vegan pizza joint with two outlets in the city. Order the Ultraviole­t Pizza, with walnuts, arugula pesto, cashew mozzarella, oven-dried tomatoes, kale, caramelise­d onions and pine nuts, or look out for specials on pizza and beer. virtuouspi­e.com 4 Hash it out After a morning hike, soaking up Pacific mountain scenery and sea air, refuel at Heirloom with mimosas and the signature Heirloom Hash, an energising mix of courgette, heirloom tomatoes, red onion, almond and coriander purée, hash browns and either 5 poached eggs or tofu. heirloomve­g.ca Free-from fromage Chef Karen McAthy is an authority on plant-based cheese-making and runs courses on it. If you just want to buy the stuff, head to her shop, Blue Heron Creamery (open Saturdays only), for 100% vegan cheeses. Smoke ’n’ Spice and almond ricotta are favourites. blueheronc­heese.com 6 Lebanese lunch A well-loved Vancouver chain with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options, Nuba serves colourful Lebanese dishes in a relaxed but trendy setting. The signature dish is Najib’s Special (crispy cauliflowe­r tossed with lemon and sea salt, and accompanie­d by a dollop of tahini) but it also does well-priced meze-style plates. nuba.ca 7 Comfort cooking The three branches of Meet now put vegan twists on comfort food staples: try a double-double burger (with vegan cheese and coconut bacon), or the mac ’n’ cheez bowl (macaroni with cashew ‘cheez’ sauce, ‘rawmesan’, spring onions and a sprinkle of smoked salt). meetonmain.com 8

Sugar high Seek out Vegan Pudding &

Co’s little hole-in-the-wall storefront to try one of its signature Japanese-style ‘custard’ puddings. Made from kabocha squash and coconut sugar, they’re deliciousl­y creamy and sweet but dairy-free. Flavours include black sesame, matcha and chocolate, but the original vanilla version is the most popular. veganpuddi­ngco.com 9 Vietnamese fusion Family-run Chau

Veggie Express focusses on fresh, colourful, plant-based dishes at both its branches. Try the Diving for Pearls Broth (with rice noodles, lychee-date broth, organic tofu and kale), or the dairy-free coconut pandan leaf and kale ice cream. chowatchau.ca 10

Tacos and tequila A much-loved Mexican-inspired vegetarian restaurant, Bandidas Taqueria makes everything from scratch (including its tortillas). Try Dave’s Enchilada, with smokysweet chipotle tofu, and a hibiscus tequila lemonade. bandidasta­queria.com

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