Our pro says…
At Koffmann & Mr White’s there are immediate glimpses of both culinary greats’ heritage stamped all over the space. It’s decked out in historic muted colours, with an original Georgian floor and lovely old artworks lining the walls. Flickering candelabras add to the romantic vibe; globe lights, taupe leather banquettes and marble tables make the space feel fancy yet relaxed, in classic Parisian brasserie style.
Service is friendly, though gets off to a chaotic start, and our own waitress doesn’t seem especially enamoured to be there. *I wasn’t recognised.
The menu reads a little like a greatest hits list – minus Pierre’s famous stuffed pig’s trotter – and it all seems incredibly affordable, for a collaboration between two three-star chefs. Not that you’ll find them in the kitchen day to day, of course.
Starters are a definite win. The English farmhouse salad comprises soft ham hock paired with crisp romaine, golden croutons, generous amounts of gruyère, piquant homemade salad cream and plenty of nostalgia. French onion soup, sweet with cider, salty and wonderfully moreish, comes topped with more burnished gruyère and a local Bertinet sourdough crouton. Each spoon delivers mountains of melting, stringy cheese, and a hidden golden egg yolk is the perfect smile-inducing treasure.
Our mains are hit and miss. The ratio of filling to mash on the shepherd’s pie feels a little mean and lacks seasoning, though the accompanying peas à la Française are buttery and delicious. Fillet steak has a dark, charry exterior and a meltingly soft and ruddy heart, but it’s a mistake to douse it with the accompanying heavy-handed poivre sauce. Luckily, the pinot noir is dangerously drinkable, the vine tomatoes sweet and flavourful, and proper beef-fat chips are as crisp and fluffy as you like.
To finish we shared a soft, champagne-poached pear, a bit too laced with honeyed sweetness but rescued by a light crème vanilla with masterful wobble.
THE BOTTOM LINE
The food is joyous in parts but in others slightly misses the mark. It’s early days, so a few cracks to smooth over are understandable and it feels like the team here haven’t quite hit their stride yet. I’d go back for the onion soup alone and with an extra soupçon of Messrs Koffmann and White’s culinary magic, it could be an obvious go-to for Bath.
Total bill for two, excluding service: £97.42
FOOD: 7/10 SERVICE: 6/10 VIBE: 8/10