BOROUGH, EDINBURGH

Borough is laidback, with good tunes on the record player and an eager-toplease front of house.

Interiors are cool and Scandi-esque, with paintings specially commissioned by local artist Steven Cox.

Chef Darren Murray, former head chef of this site’s previous acclaimed incarnation, Norn, is behind the ‘no rules’ menu. Without a handy guide, like starters or main courses, small or large plates, it can be confusing to read. Even more vaguely, dishes are listed as ingredients, so what actually arrives at the table can be a surprise. But the idea is to trust chef, go with the flow and order as much or as little as you like (although two to three each for dinner is probably a safe bet). Luckily, all the dishes deliver on technique and flavour. This is a chef with a delicate touch and a flexible menu that gives him the freedom to really show off.

Beetroot, beef fat and elderberry added up to some serious flavour. Another plate of ricotta and chestnut dumplings turned out to be soft, fluffy pillows of cheesy joy, served with charred radicchio. Light chicken parfait, with crumbled cobnuts and fresh figs, delivered lovely honeyed notes and was scooped up swiftly onto crispbreads. For dessert, smooth and creamy jerusalem artichoke and malt ice cream with crunchy oatcakes made our evening.

Borough had a tough act to follow. But well-considered dishes and a relaxed atmosphere make it an excellent addition to Leith’s food scene. boroughrestaurant.com