PRO VS PUNTER

LONDON WC2

Critic and reader compare notes on Nutshell in Covent Garden

Does a regular diner reach the same conclusion about a restaurant as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* Critic Laura Rowe and O reader Alexandra Boyle compare notes on Covent Garden’s new modern Iranian

Anticipation began building for the opening of Nutshell back in May, with the birth of its colourful Instagram account. Pictures of golden “bazaar bread” (baked to order in the brick oven), freshly picked and fire-roasted pistachios, and trays piled with sour cornelian cherries gave an indication of the restaurant to come.

Inspired by the dishes co-owner Mohammad Paknejad grew up eating in Tehran, head chef Jeremy Borrow, previously of The Palomar, has created a menu of modern small plates. Ghormeh sabzi, a fragrant herb stew, is translated into grilled octopus with sabzi salsa, butter beans and grated Persian lime. Fesenjan, a pomegranate and walnut stew often served with chicken, here arrives with a head of charred cauliflower.

Jonas Stern (formerly of Pollen Street Social) has worked up the drinks lists, inspired by the sweet sherbet traditionally offered to visitors in Iranian homes. Mexican in Tehran sees tequila infused with dried lime and served with apricot, lime, sumac and salt. There’s also mocktails nodding to the classic sekanjabin (cordial made with honey and vinegar), iced tea and kombucha; as well as a range of ‘spiced up’ gins and a wine list championing organic, biodynamic and minimalintervention bottles from the Middle East and the Caucasus.

Interior design fans might recognise the décor as from the same designers that worked on Lyle’s and Gymkhana – the space has looked to Persian patterns, and the pink and green hues of a pistachio, for its inspiration. nutshelllondon.co.uk