Our pro says...

The décor at Nutshell looks like the regurgitation of a millennial’s Pinterest board, with pink velvet and brass chairs, marble and dark-wood table tops, and #Ihavethisthingwithfloors tiles by the open kitchen. *I wasn’t recognised.

Cocktails get us in the mood, with sour cherry wine, spiced Campari and saffron gin making a fine Persian negroni. Shame we can’t hear each other over the loud music, though.

The menu of small plates is designed to be shared – we order six, plus saffron rice between two of us. My other half in this scenario is second-gen Iranian Assyrian and agreed that all her Persian friends had come to the party – pistachio, pomegranate, sumac, yogurt, aubergine and saffron rice – but not in their usual garb.

Mast-o khiar and smoky aubergine are as delicious as they are pretty – the former featuring diced cucumber, dried mint and yogurt, topped with pearls of pomegranate, pistachio studs, rose petals and soft herbs; the latter bejewelled with creamy feta, juicy blackcurrants, more pomegranate and crispy onions. Jojeh poussin, marinated in saffron, lemon and yogurt, is skilfully grilled over coals and tender as a result. Khoresht bademjan (a stew of tomatoes, onions, aubergines and split chickpeas) has comforting depth, while charred cauliflower meets its match with moody sweet and sour fesenjan stew with whole walnuts, pomegranate and barberries.

Service was slow and sometimes forgetful, but joyful. Pauline, our server, was the highlight of the meal – taking service with a smile to a whole new level – even if her suggestion of Persian sundae was a dud note.