PRO VS PUNTER

Does a regular diner reach the same conclusion about a restaurant as a food pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?* Critic Mark Taylor and O reader Jenny Purcell compare notes on this Italian-inspired Bristol opening

Critic and reader compare notes on Bianchis in Bristol

Apainted Bell’s Diner & Bar Rooms sign might still exist above the door at this famed Montpelier restaurant site, but there are some new owners in town. The latest from entrepreneurial cousins Dominic Borel and Ben Harvey – they’ve opened three more Italian restaurants across Bristol – Bianchis is inspired by traditional Italian trattorias.

The inside has had a refurb, without losing its character – with bottle-green banquettes and wood panelling, crisp white tablecloths, and a modern geometric print in the bar – and there’s a mix of bookable tables and those reserved for walk-ins. There’s a suitably grown-up nod to the restaurant’s Italian roots right from the off, with a bitter aperitivo list (negronis, Aperol and Campari spritzes, vermouth and tonics), and plenty of Italian wines, but there are also a few curveballs to look out for – including an Essex pinot blanc, an Austrian orange wine and a trendy Greek red.

When it comes to the food, the team goes further than the pasta-centric offerings at its other sites (Pasta Loco and Pasta Ripiena). The menu – divided into cured, raw, antipasti, primi (showcasing their pasta-making skills) and secondi sections – makes the most of local West Country producers: think braised quail with pancetta, coco blanc, turnip and girolle agrodolche; and roast hake with Dorset clams and baby fennel. The kitchen is headed up by Pegs Quinn, who boasts the River Café on his CV. bianchisrestaurant.co.uk