FOODIE GUIDE TO ROME
Head to the Italian capital to feast on chargrilled mozzarella, porchetta sandwiches and glasses of local red wine
The Italian capital at its best
1 Coffee culture Stop for a caffeine fix at the Castroni emporium on Via Cola di Rienzo. Its house bar is wedged beside shelves of the best Italian produce; sip a cappuccino al vetro surrounded by the smell of just-ground coffee and the buzz of the Prati neighbourhood. castronicoladirienzoshop.it
2 Top of the crops Mercato Rionale Niccolini (open every day but Sunday), on Via Giovanni Battista Niccolini, is the place to head to for the pick of the season’s crops. Seek out buffalo-milk ricotta and chargrilled mozzarella at Alimentari Carlo, in the middle of the strip, as well as one of Rome’s best fish stalls.
3 Comfort food Double-fried carciofi alla giudia (meltingly soft artichoke hearts encased by crisp leaves) are one of the undisputed pillars of the Roman table. For some of the best, make your way to Ristorante Piperno, a charming dining room in the city’s Jewish ghetto area. ristorantepiperno.it 4 Modern dining Chef Domenico Cortese of Marigold celebrates the best of every season in dishes such as shaved fennel and puntarelle with toasted hazelnuts, and aubergines with roasted pepper romesco salsa. Completing the picture are Sofie Wochner’s sourdough breads and a great natural wine list. marigoldroma.com
5 Pasta master The name is a giveaway at The Pasta Factory, Veronica Paolillo’s unique studio kitchen. Not only is it set in an old pasta factory but the small group workshops she leads here focus firmly on pasta. Learn how to make three different types of the stuff before enjoying them over a shared meal with your fellow students. airbnb.co.uk/experiences/73812
6 Street food Supplì are mozzarellafilled fried rice balls. At Supplizio on Via dei Banchi Vecchi, you can try a perfect rendition of the classic tomato supplì, as well as cacio e pepe and carbonara versions. supplizioroma.it 7 Porchetta time The long tradition of bringing herb-stuffed and cracklingcoated roast pork from the hinterland towns into the city continues with the selling of porchetta sandwiches. One of the best porchetta paninis is to be found at the Campagna Amica farmers’ market on Via di San Teodoro every Saturday and Sunday. circusmaximumfarmersmarket. wordpress.com
8 Glass acts Enoteca are the best kind of wine shops: those you can have a drink in. Even better if they serve small plates of appetisers alongside the wine, as Il Goccetto does. If you’re visiting in the winter ask for a glass of local red, such as Cesanese del Piglio from the hills to the east of Rome. facebook.com/Ilgoccetto
9 Scoop it up Steps away from St Peter’s Square, Spoon Gelateria is Rome’s newest gelato gem. The purist’s pick is hazelnut, pistachio and chocolate with a slick of whipped cream, or try a scoop of the Gentillini, made with the iconic Roman biscuits. @spoongelateria
10 Urban inn At Urbana 47, paredback bedrooms are set above a happening bar and pizzeria in the Monti neighbourhood. Breakfast is typically Roman and no-frills (a coffee and a cornetto pastry) but if you’re after something more substantial you can pay extra for eggs with seasonal vegetables or croques monsieurs with mozzarella down in the restaurant. urbana47.it