The innovator

Gareth Ward, Ynyshir, Wales

Gareth Ward might call the Ynyshir experience “fun dining” rather than fine dining, but nothing quite prepares you for the surprises in store when you arrive at this remote Welsh hotel. A stunning white mansion-style property in immaculate grounds close to Snowdonia, it may look like any other high-end country house hotel but then you step into the bar with its black walls, sheep fleeces, twin decks and shelves of vinyl. There can’t be many Michelin-starred restaurants with their own DJ booth in the bar. The open kitchen is split into two, with a chef’s table in each. There’s a retro Eskimo Joe’s slush machine on one counter (it’s used for the fermented raspberry granita served towards the end of the meal) and Gareth plans to get a rotating kebab grill next – he likes the idea of cooking Welsh lamb on it. The 23-course tasting menu is protein-heavy and showcases only the very best ingredients, which are predominantly local but some of the top-grade wagyu is from Japan and Scotland, as is some shellfish. Gareth only buys the very best Japanese mirin, soy and miso, and he won’t compromise on quality despite the high prices. Asian flavours permeate the majority of dishes, including Aylesbury duck leg, which is brined, roasted, deboned and crisped up with sesame seeds and soy sauce. Other menu highlights include mackerel (aged for five days in the purpose-built Himalayan salt chamber in the hotel grounds) served raw with fiery wasabi, nori, puffed wild rice, soy and furikake. A dish of barbecue wagyu, sourdough, mayo and compressed Iceberg lettuce has a more intense burger flavour than any burger you’ve ever tasted. The innovation continues through to a dessert of white chocolate mousse made with Japanese silken tofu, served with fermented black bean juice, as well as fudge made with Welsh wagyu beef fat. ynyshir.co.uk

Head judge Laura Rowe says: Gareth has made the most of his fine-dining budget to really have fun and experiment with the best ingredients he can find. Our judge said this was hands-down the best meal they’d had this year (and, trust us, they eat out a lot!).