Our punter says...

The décor at The Betterment makes you feel as if you’re stepping onto the set of

The Great Gatsby. With emerald-green plush, tokens of gold and opulent flower displays, it fits perfectly into its Mayfair home. The enthusiastic sommelier greeted us with a perfectly chilled glass of Ruinart rosé, setting the tone for the evening.

Our charming and knowledgeable waiter explained the already descriptive menu as adopting a sharing plates approach.

Starters arrived swiftly. Pork cheek terrine is a little too chunky. The crab on toast impresses, served in its shell, with sweet brown crabmeat. Strikingly plain in appearance, the star of the show was the roasted Orkney scallop, served with sharply pickled girolles, perfectly cutting through a mountain of rich aged parmesan.

With the ox cheek tortellini a little thick and the John Dory a little vanilla, all focus turned to the opulence of the short rib. Melting beef boasted rich caramelisation, accompanied with an abundance of crunchy apple, salty Montgomery cheddar, truffle and lavish bone marrow – the menu’s ‘embers’ section packs the punch it promises.

Sides of beef-dripping chips, and an impressive onion flower, played sidecar to their dip accompaniments: an umamipacked truffle and mushroom ketchup and an illuminating chive emulsion.

The dessert menu didn’t charm us, so we concluded the night with a third glass of Moulin de Gassac and a Violet Sky sweetener (sloe gin, Belvedere vodka, violet, lemon, sugar and egg white) from the cocktail menu.