FOODIE GUIDE TO COPENHAGEN
Hunt down harissa-laced pumpkin and umami-rich sausage rolls
1 Café chic Order warm, cinnamon-spiked apple juice and poppy-seed-covered tebirkes (pastries) at stylish café Atelier September. Or go for lunch, when harissa is stirred through pumpkin purée and lemon oil gives a citrussy kick to creamy stracciatella cheese. cafeatelierseptember.com
2 Scandi speakeasy Cosy drinking den Curfew is popular among locals for its vintage interiors and Scandi cocktails with a Portuguese twist. Sip on pine and pineapple sazeracs, rum punch laced with ruby port wine, or the nutty Mahogany, a whisky number topped up with madeira vermouth and maraschino. curfew.dk 3 Hygge bakery Cycle across the river to Lille Bakery, a warehouse-turnedcafé where colourful salads are chopped at the counter and umami-rich Danish sausage rolls sit on cooling racks. Lunch options include cod with lentils, leeks and cavolo nero, and drinks – think hibiscus iced tea – are homemade. lillebakery.com
4 Street food Refshaleøen island is home to Copenhagen’s most vibrant street-food market, Reffen. Here, among colourful lights and Nordic flags, sea containers serve global dishes such as Baobab’s hearty Gambian peanut stew, or Thrilla in Manila’s spicy Filipino skewers. reffen.dk
5 Greenhouse veggies Nordic veggies and herbs are at the heart of the menu at plant-filled restaurant Vaekst.
Opt for the excellent value three-course tasting menu, kicking off with sourdough and lovage butter before feasting on pickled celeriac with fried pork neck and pan-fried halibut on parsley root purée. cofoco.dk 6 Late-night Italian Join local chefs for silky folds of pappardelle with rich hare ragu or spaghettone with savoy cabbage and mussels at late-night Italian Barabba. Finish with a crunchy, chocolaty semi-frozen hazelnut ‘rocher’ or stick around for the regular negroni-fuelled parties. barabba.dk
7 Natural wines Descend into candlelit wine vault Den Vandrette for bottles selected by this pioneering natural wine importer. Try elegant Nas del Gegant rosé or sparkling Belzébrut alongside Nordic small plates such as smoked celeriac with oyster leaf and crisp black chickpeas, Norwegian scallops with sea buckthorn, or Christiansø herring with brown butter. denvandrette.dk 8 Vegan vibes In-the-know locals recommend funky plant-forward bistro Baka d’Busk. The daily changing menu includes the likes of sliced heritage tomato, fig and pea salad with nasturtium leaves, and white asparagus topped with fresh orange and olives. There are natural wines, too, and apple juice on tap. bakabistro.dk
9 Market newbies Though it’s been around for years, indoor market Torvehallerne is constantly evolving and always worth checking out for new vendors. Alongside stalwarts such as Coffee Collective brews, Grød porridge and Mikkeller craft beer, more recent additions include Friis-Holm Danish chocolate and Il Mattarello’s fresh pasta. torvehallernekbh.dk 10 Micro hotel In a one-up, onedown building in Vesterbro, Central Hotel og Café functions as a single-bedroom hotel. The pint-sized coffee shop below serves Risteriet coffee and old-fashioned milkshakes, while oak furnishings (including a traditional writing desk) fit neatly into the compact bedroom. Luxuries include bespoke Tromborg toiletries and yellow bikes provided free of charge, and the room rate includes brunch at Café Granola half a block away. centralhotelogcafe.dk