Olive Magazine

Our punter says...

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It was the perfect evening for a riverside stroll to Tavolino. The terrace has stunning views of Tower Bridge but we escaped the heat and sat inside, where the low-ceilinged, pink and teal interior of banquettes and pillars became even more charming post-sunset in the cosy lamplight.

Service throughout our visit was friendly and unobtrusiv­e, with thoughtful recommenda­tions, such as the sparkly Prugna Frizzante, a juicy Akashi-Tai plum sake enlivened by white grape and apricot soda, and prosecco.

We found the focaccia a little dry but loved the parmesan and lardo bombolini, deepfried spheres whose satisfying crunch gave way to a pillowy, unctuous cheese filling. We had seconds.

A burrata antipasto could have been creamier but was cleverly balanced by basil oil spiked with mint; panelle wrapped in smoked duck breast came with a wonderfull­y light, umami-packed anchovy whip, though the delicate savourines­s of the duck was lost in the crispy but flavourles­s fritters.

A main of lamb saddle was bursting with flavour, if a touch overcooked, with salty, crispy skin and an inspired side of peperonata (stewed red peppers), singing with summer sweetness. The showstoppe­r was silky pasta handkerchi­efs served with a golden egg yolk, studded with earthy walnuts and zingy hits of pecorino: simplicity at its most sumptuous.

We ended with a skillet polenta cake and were extremely glad we did – a crumbly, butter-rich cake served with a sweetshops­herbet cherry sauce.

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