Olive Magazine

Our pro says...

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“Wow, what a lovely view,” is where we started this little eating adventure outside on the terrace on one of those perfect summer London evenings. While reading the menu we ordered a carafe each from the wine list – a Barbera Piemonte from the reds and a Gavi del Comune di Gavi from the whites.

The menu is a classic Italian choice of snacks, antipasti, pasta, pizza, secondi and dessert. A starter of crispy panelle (chickpea fritter), lardo, smoked duck breast and whipped anchovy sounded lovely but lacked interest in terms of flavour and texture. The ’nduja and burrata pizza was a tasty enough carb alternativ­e to the pasta. Saddle of lamb was a perfectly pleasant option for those who believe that carbs are evil – decent but not mind-blowing.

We ordered two pasta dishes we were familiar with from visits to Bancone: the simple but classic bucatini cacio e pepe – a thick spaghetti-style pasta drenched in parmesan, a tonne of crushed black pepper and butter; and the Instagram-famous silk handkerchi­efs with walnut butter and confit Burford Brown yolk. Both hit the mark. The fresh handmade pasta was perfectly al dente and both dishes were rich yet also deliciousl­y light at the same time.

We finished by selecting the polenta skillet cake to share from a dessert menu that includes tiramisu, ice creams, sorbets and a list of ‘liquid desserts’, which loosely translates to boozy dessertsty­le cocktails. The skillet cake is made for two to share, takes 15 minutes to make and the light cake consistenc­y and rich cherry compote topping gently tipped us over the edge into a full-blown food coma.

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