Kate Hawkings on...
O’s wine expert on the versatile charms of this classic Italian grape
have something of a soft spot for Montepulciano. It reminds me of my far-distant youth, when eating out more often than not meant Pizza Express or a trad trattoria complete with over-sized pepper grinders and ready-grated parmesan that would make any Italian nonna blush. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was always the go-to wine – reassuringly consistent, fruity but not jammy, and a reliably well-priced, easy match for whatever pasta or pizza took my fancy that day. Montepulciano (pronounced monta-pulchanno) is a robust and high-yielding Italian grape whose home is the rugged central region of Abruzzo bounded by the Gran Sasso mountains and the Adriatic Sea, whose climatic influences lend characteristic freshness to the wines. It’s mostly used for these simple, rustic reds, made to be drunk young, and which are still a dependable budget choice from supermarket shelves – try the Sorso Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Morrisons at £6.75.
But montepulciano has other strings to its bow. It is also grown elsewhere in Italy, as well as in New Zealand, Australia and the USA, and is increasingly being used, sometimes blended with other grapes, to make more serious wines. Many are produced with a more artisanal approach using organic grapes and traditional methods, often aged in oak barrels to give extra depth and complexity with woody, spicy notes and grippy tannins.
Although montepulciano is mainly used for red wines, it also makes some lovely rosés – sniff out Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo if you can. Cerasuolo means ‘cherry red’ and refers to its shade, which comes from the deeply coloured skins left in contact with the juice for a short time after pressing. They have a zippy, crunchy fruitiness along with wonderful notes of mountain herbs, and are one of my favourite styles of rosé.
These wines should not be confused with those from the hill town of Montepulciano in Tuscany, an anomaly that dates back to the 1600s when the town was ruled by the Medici family, who also owned land in what is now Abruzzo. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is made from sangiovese grapes and often is a better value-for-money choice than its similar but more famous siblings Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, while Vin Santo di Montepulciano is a luscious sweet wine made from white grapes, ideally used to dunk cantuccini, the almond biscuits of the region. Crociani Vin Santo di Montepulciano (£19.49) from Waitrose is a great example. Montepulciano wines, whether from the grape or the town, may be modest or magnificent. Most make for very happy drinking – take your pick.
Kate Hawkings is a writer and wine consultant. Her debut book, Aperitif, was published in 2018. Follow her on Twitter @katehawkings.
IPemo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017 (£9.99, ocado.com)
Pecorino (the grape) blended with montepulciano, full of raspberry fruits with a smoky, leathery snap. Drink with the Moroccan stuffed peppers on p50.
Palladino Biferno Molise 2016 (£8, Co-op Food) From the tiny Molise region, this bargain montepulciano/ aglianico blend is perfumed and plummy – perfect with the courgetti noodles with puttanesca sauce on p52.
Blind Spot Barossa Valley Montepulciano Blend 2018 (£10.95, thewinesociety.com)
An Australian take on the grape gives a muscular but well-rounded wine that’s great for a barbecue or with the Silk Road-style lamb and cumin pasta on p36.
Umani Ronchi Cùmaro Rosso Conero Riserva (£22.49, allaboutwine.co.uk)
Wow – this is montepulciano turned up to 11! Layers of vanilla, pepper and tobacco that deserve flavour-packed dishes such as the late-summer lamb, tomato and tamarind stew on p14.
Valle Reale Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2016
(£25, shop@passionevino.co.uk)
A very rare and special rosé, savoury and herbaceous. Very versatile with food but particularly good with the pesto-baked salmon fillets on p51.