10 things I love about Manila
Lee Johnson, co-founder of Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen, tells us what makes the food of the Philippines so special
Lee Johnson, co-founder of Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen, tells us what makes the food of the Philippines special
Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen is the latest Filipino food venture from Lee Johnson and his partner Sinead
Campbell. They started with food truck BBQ Dreamz in 2014, winning BBC Two’s My Million Pound Menu. Based in Kerb’s indoor market in Covent Garden, Bong Bong’s has a menu based on the founding avours of Filipino cuisine.
1 Ube
This purple Filipino sweet potato is slightly sweeter and nuttier than the ones we’re familiar with in the UK. It’s used in all different types of desserts and sweets, from ice creams and cakes, to jams, doughnuts and pastries. Despite its predominant use in sweet foods, ube has been found to have very high nutritional value, good carb content and flavonoids, meaning that it’s high in antioxidants. What more would you want in your dessert?
2 La Paz batchoy
A noodle soup dish originating from La Paz in Iloilo, near to where my family comes from. It’s made with beef or chicken stock, pork offal, sliced pork and shrimp paste, and topped with chicharrón, spring onion, crispy garlic and an egg. It’s basically a Filipino version of a ramen, but the best you’ll ever have.
3 Dinuguan
This won’t be to everyone’s taste but it’s honestly so, so good, we have it whenever we see it on a menu. Dinuguan is what we would describe as a blood pudding stew – it’s made from cooking pork and pork offal in vinegar, garlic, onion and pig’s blood. It may not sound it but it’s honestly amazing.
4 Calamansi
This is the most predominant citrus fruit used in the Philippines. It’s kind of like a mix between a lime and a kumquat. It’s used all over the Philippines in cooking, sauces, drinks, desserts and jams. It’s sour and tangy, with a sweet rind.
5 Sawsawan
Basically a vinegar dip, and you can dip everything into it. Our favourite version is made with coconut vinegar, shallots, bird’s-eye chillies, peppercorns, garlic, soy sauce and a squeeze of calamansi.
6 Laing
Also known as pinangat, laing is a dish made by cooking down taro leaves in a rich broth of coconut milk, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, chilli and ginger. It originates from Bicol, which is at the southern end of Luzon island. It can be made with shrimp paste, fish or meat but we like ours without any of these bits, as it makes an excellent vegan side dish – think creamed coconut spinach but better.
7 Longganisa sausages
Also spelled longaniza, these sausages are like a sweet, garlicky chorizo. There are many variations in the Philippines but generally they’re made with pork, garlic, vinegar, pepper, salt and brown sugar, then coloured red with annatto, a red seed from the achiote tree. Filipinos eat them for breakfast with garlic fried rice, fried eggs and sawsawan in a dish called longsilog.
8 Bananacue
We think this is one of the simplest but greatest creations ever. Sold all over food markets across the Philippines, these are sticky, caramelised saba bananas on a skewer. The way they’re made is a little bit wild: the bananas are deep-fried in oil, then brown sugar is poured directly into the oil to caramelise.
9 Chicken adobo
This is a family staple that reminds me of my childhood – and it was the first Filipino dish that Sinead tried. It’s known as the unofficial national dish but every single Filipino family has their own recipe, so there are hundreds of variations. Our favourite is the wet version made with coconut vinegar, light soy sauce, onion, plenty of garlic and bay. Find a recipe overleaf.
10 Crispy pata
This is one of our all-time favourites. Crispy pata is made by simmering a whole pork knuckle or hock with garlic, bay, peppercorns, star anise, water and vinegar until tender. Once cooked, the pork is removed, dried and deep-fried until crisp. It’s served whole with dips and rice, and everyone digs in. We serve it with pancakes, pickles and sauces, a bit like a crispy duck pancake, but with Filipino flavours.