Olive Magazine

Cook like a local: Middle East

From spice and smoke, to citrus and herbs, dive into the distinct flavours of this wonderfull­y diverse region

- Words and recipes ORI MENASHE, GENEVIEVE GERGIS and LESLEY SUTER Photograph­s NICOLE FRANZEN Ori Menashe

Enjoy layers of avour, from spice and smoke to citrus and herbs

Middle Eastern food is about layering avours – spices, acids, pickles – to create something powerful out of

what are often very simple raw ingredient­s. That sense of luxury and craveabili­ty has to be coaxed out of food by blooming spices, mixing citrus and vinegars, grilling, smoking and adding toasted seeds and fresh herbs.

If I close my eyes, I can still smell the spice markets of my youth, the intense aroma of chillies, seeds and powders from throughout the region colliding in cramped alleyways. Growing up, my dad would take me with him on trips to the market, where I’d see dozens of stalls selling spices along with pickles, olives, dried ƒsh and preserved lemons. The smell of it all together was irresistib­le, like wafts of pure hunger. After the smell came the colour: vibrant hues of red, orange, black and all the shades in between. It’s the colour, my dad taught me, that hints at the quality. The more vibrantloo­king the spices, the fresher they taste. We’d walk out with a few bags of this and that, clothes smelling of sa‰ron and ginger, and stop for shawarma or falafel before going home.

A uniƒed version of the Middle East is alive and well in its food, where you can taste traces of shared culinary traditions. Like the land itself, these cuisines have, over time, become divided, labelled and claimed. But at their core, these are the intertwine­d ‘avours of a communal past.

“the smel o al the fo in the market toe therws ir esistib e, like w fts o pure hunger”

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