Olive Magazine

Our punter says

- Francesca Chinery is a sustainabi­lity advisor from Brighton. She loves anything with chocolate, mushrooms or anchovies, but her guilty pleasure is a salt and vinegar crisp sandwich loaded with butter and mayo.

Shelter Hall is in an ideal spot on Brighton beach. The décor is modern and relaxed, in keeping with the location. There are seven kitchens, including a shortterm one that changes regularly, and a variety of cuisines and dishes to choose from, including vegetarian options. But there could be more vegan dishes on offer.

We order from five of the kitchens: Santan Boi, Caught by Crab Shack, Ox Block by Kenny Tutt, Zest by Hanoi Kitchen and Pan by Lost Boys Chicken.

We start with satay aubergine and hoisin tofu bao buns from Zest. The buns are soft and fluffy, and the flavours are delicious – but we’d like more filling. Both types of bun are lacking some heat, which would cut through the richness of the hoisin and satay flavours.

The crispy squid from Caught is the best dish we have – a crisp, light batter coating tender squid that’s scattered with fresh chillies and served with a garlicky mayo. The loaded crab fries are also delicious, with creamy dressed crab sitting on top of salty fries.

The 40-day dry-aged angus sirloin steak with flatbread from Ox Block is underwhelm­ing – the steak is too charred on the outside, leaving a somewhat burnt taste. The flatbread should be served on the side rather than underneath the steak, as it arrives soggy. But for £12 this is a good-value dish with a generous portion of meat.

The service is brisk, as would be expected from this type of eatery, but the waiters are friendly and knowledgea­ble about the dishes, which is impressive given the number of plates available.

The only downsides are that we’re served the bao buns and chips without napkins, and empty plates aren’t removed, which would give us more space when new dishes arrive. That being said, we really enjoyed the variety and quality of food, and we will be back.

Bill for two, including service: £98.73 Atmosphere: 8

Service: 7

Food: 8

Total: 23/30

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