FULL STEAM AHEAD
WHO doesn’t love train travel? It’s a rare opportunity to unplug and stare out at the rich countryside or simply enjoy a good book. I decided to take a day trip to the seaside on a beautiful old steam train… on the hottest day of the year.
We took the Dorset Coast Express to Weymouth. Departing from Victoria at 08.45am, I clutched our tickets and took in the ridiculously romantic scene.
Despite thinking I wouldn’t be struck by the beauty of the train under Victoria’s arches, I had forgotten I’m a raging romantic so my knees did go weak a little.
I was suddenly sad I hadn’t dressed up for the occasion, hat in hand, to wave off a loved one.
Stepping on to the train, I smelled the teak wood panelling that smoothed the countryside’s reflection around the carriage doors.
The carpeted floors, lamps on tables and the lighting fixtures all seemed to be originals and beautiful with age, much like the staff themselves.
The train is almost entirely run by volunteers.
“It gets into your blood,” explained volunteer David. “Growing up in East Barnet in the ‘50s, trainspotting was what you did. I do it for the atmosphere.”
The engine which hauled us was the A4 Pacific No. 60009 Union of South Africa, sister to the legendary A4 Pacific Mallard which holds the steam train speed record of 126 mph set in 1938.
We were already sticky as we sat down but settled into a Bucks Fizz.
My friend and I had booked premier seats which entitled us to a full English breakfast with unlimited tea and coffee plus fruit, cereal and porridge options too (not forgetting the surprisingly good veggie option which included halloumi and veggie sausages).
The couple next to us shared their hand fans as the day warmed up, but the seats were plush originals of the 60-year-old carriage and big enough to curl up into so we were comfy despite the lack of air con.
Floating down the hallways post-food coma we came across Mr and Mrs Smithers. It was their 60th wedding anniversary and their tickets were a present from their daughter. The last time they were on a steam train was 60 years ago that day, when they went off on their honeymoon. A welcome ice cream in Weymouth
Answering the obligatory question, of how to keep a marriage going for such a long period, Mrs Smithers said that every day Mr Smithers will turn to her and say “Where are we going today?” and they will make something of their day.
The entire train population spilled out onto the platform at the two water stops the train needs to reach its destination, both to feel the fresh air and to take in the machine that’s carrying us.
It was the most satisfyingly vintage green, with men in overalls and soot-covered faces who moved about their business as though time had never left the 1950s.
Now that the trains run just for pleasure, the volunteers keep them going through the premier services they provide to guests, donating money from the onboard raffle to the Railway Children charity.
I fell into my armchair with a book, occasionally staring out at the New Forest scenery, my friend and I finally subdued over some champagne after the initial excitement of the train’s beautiful features, the sound as it rushed through the countryside, and the train’s call around bends.
We arrived at Weymouth just as the heat of the day started to become unbearable, and we unleashed our woozy selves onto the town.
We made a beeline for ice cream and the cool sea, happy that the British coast, for once, did not disappoint for temperature.
After a few hours we took our winnings (one appropriately oversized teddy bear which the volunteers laughed at) and headed back to where the train was waiting for us, G&Ts at the ready.
Our tickets also entitled us to a four-course, silver-service meal.
Unfortunately, a technical difficulty – I blame the heat – meant we missed out on our main course, the first kitchen mishap in 11 years.
However, the three courses were more than enough, and the asparagus and pea girasole pasta was light and tasty.
The cheese course and lemon tart particularly went down well with a fresh glass of champagne, even if my forehead resembled the dewy glass at that point.
I finished my book and my friend and I played games in my notebook as we lost the sun through the curtain draped scenery.
It had been the first full day I’d spent with my old friend in a long time and he and the train had made excellent drinking partners.
Disembarking wearily at 10pm, I was reminded of the value of talking to people.
Take a steam train and you might just learn something new, or at least finally finish that book of yours.