GINS YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF

Never Never Triple Juniper Gin, Australia, £26.95 for 50cl, Winebuyers.com

Although there’s no escaping the juniper, the gin’s not terpene-heavy but complex and lifted, thanks to the peels and the citric accents of Aussie coriander. Refreshingly clean with a just-washed sense, those peels and piquant spices are present early on, then the oily juniper/rosemary breaks through in the middle and spins off again towards a drying finish.

Forest Dr y Gin Autumn, France, £39.45 for 50cl, The Whisky Exchange

This strikes a lovely balance between the fruits and florals (lavender especially), with some of the weight suggestive of the end of the year – we’re into deeper notes of violet and iris, lavish juniper, and spiced-up fruits, with a subtle verbena note. The use of distilled pear juice is clever, as it adds a scented element, while ameliorating the potentially over-exuberant botanicals.

Nikka Coffey Gin, Japan, £47.95 for 70cl, The Whisky Exchange

Sansho (aka Sichuan pepper) is a member of the citrus family and adds an oily, limelike (and peppery) fragrance. It’s big and rounded, with citrus and the distinct hit of sansho partnering with it and the juniper. The palate also leads in the same way, though there’s a little more pine and yuzu coming in later on.

Bareksten Botanical Gin, Norway, £42.45 for 70cl, The Whisky Exchange

Each of the 26 botanicals serves a purpose: to create an image of place. The key is how this hits a balance between the mossy, forested earth tones and higher aromatics. It provides a pillowy foundation for seemingly contradictory effects: dry, fragrant, and heavily floral, citric yet resinous, with a refreshingly austere finish.