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1Where do you start when there are huge breaches in the hull? Fortunately rot was mainly confined to the hood ends of the planks in the bow and stern where they joined the keel timbers.

2The inner stem piece and a nearby stringer were both sound, which gave good areas to fasten to and an easy option of repairing the bow a without having to remove too much planking.

3It was a case of fitting new layers of veneer where you could get a good fixing at either end and making sure the piece being fitted was fair with the surrounding hull.

4This red glow is from infrared heaters used to cure the glue – working in January meant some days the temperature struggled to rise above freezing.

5Each piece was dry fitted, often slid into awkward gaps, with one or both edges having to be spiled to ensure a good joint between old and new planking.

6Each layer of veneer was glued into place and held down fast with staples and temporary non-stick tabs to maintain curvature while the adhesive set.

7The bow section was relatively easy as there was little hull curvature.

8Outer layer of veneers had to make up the correct plank thickness. Original plank ends were routed so the new veneers could lap over them.

9On completion, prior to power sanding, minor defects including screw holes from the temporary tabs and routing jigs were filled with an epoxy mix.

10An aperture was cut next to the keel to form the freeing ports (scuppers). Internally these are built up as a box, the top of which is level with the raised inner deck to form the self-drainers.