INTERIOR NOISES

Stuff and things

Before trying to diagnose interior noises, empty the glovebox and ashtray of shrapnel, secure the spare wheel and jack, and pad the tool kit. These contribute a great deal of noise to the car.

Slack seat mechanisms

Check for rattling or knocking from the seats by holding the seat-back firmly when on the move. Reclining or folding mechanisms may be worn though sometimes a little movement is normal.

Large panels

Large facing panels can be a source of creaks and rattles. Foam strips are often inserted around clips or in the middle of panels to prevent direct contact. Renew if they’re missing or deteriorated.

Knocking doors

Doors and tailgates knock if they touch the body (note paint scuffs) or if the striker plates don’t hold them tight against the seals. Move the striker plate(s) inwards, but also check for perished seals.

Loose dashboard

The whole dashboard assembly can loosen with age and mileage, leading to heavy shuddering noises. Find and tighten all retaining bolts. Check the security of the heater box and centre console, too.

Rattling electrics

Look out for loose wiring and multiplugs inside quarter-panels and tailgates. Secure them to the frame with cable ties and pad with foam. While in the tailgate, check the wiper motor’s firmly attached.

Rattling doors

Look for offending operating rods and cables that are making contact with the frame. Fix a strip of foam under clattering rods. Tension the window cables and check all mechanisms are secure.

Flexing dashboard

The dash flexes with the body of the car, causing attached assemblies such as the instrument panel to creak. Tighten screws or insert foam or insulation tape between contacting surfaces.

Buzzing and tapping

Buzzing and tapping are hard to crack: they’re typically a very small movement. Aside from fixtures and fittings in the cabin, look at anything that’s attached to or runs along the front bulkhead.