Practical Classics (UK)

REMOVE YOUR KINGPINS

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Check for play

Support the car on axle on stands. Get an assistant to apply the brakes (to rule out the wheel bearings) and grasp the wheel top-and-bottom. Rock it firmly and check for movement. Lever the wheel up with a long bar to check for vertical play.

Pull off hub

Remove the brake drum and shoes, or the caliper and disc. Remove the hub’s grease cap, the hub nut securing device and the hub nut. Pull off the hub. Inspect the wheel bearings and grease seals closely – now’s a good time to replace them.

Remove backplate

Remove the brake backplate, complete with wheel cylinders. Drain the brake fluid or put clingfilm under the lid of the reservoir before disconnect­ing the flexi-hose. Never try to clamp flexi-hoses, as it’ll damage or weaken their inner structure.

Drive out cotter

Disconnect the trackrod. Turn the stub-axle to provide access, remove the nut from the cotter pin and strike it squarely and smartly with a hammer. The pins deform easily and may need drilling out. Try to source replacemen­ts before you start the job.

Extract kingpin

Remove any screw-in or Welch plugs to access the kingpin. Liberally apply penetratin­g oil. Some have a tapped hole that allows them to be drawn out with a bolt and an old socket, or similar. Others will need drifting out. Use heat, if necessary.

Remove spring

It might be possible to skip this step and the next one and replace the kingpins with the vertical suspension link still fitted to the car. You’ll definitely have to remove it if you’re replacing the bushes. Start by detensioni­ng and removing the spring.

Release vertical link

Release the trunnions or bushes that secure the vertical suspension link to the wishbones. This car has a screwed-type trunnion at the bottom and simple bush with a nut and pin at the top. Inspect the bushes/trunnions; replace if necessary.

Remove wishbones?

This step probably won’t be required in the process of kingpin overhaul, but it makes sense to replace any imperfect bushes while you’ve got the suspension in bits. This is also a good opportunit­y to check and service lever-arm dampers, if fitted.

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