Practical Classics (UK)

In a tight spot

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Q I’m rebuilding my 1963 Cortina’s pre-crossflow engine. It’s been re-bored to +20thou and the crank’s been polished to ‘standard’ size (as per the machinist’s notes).

I am using new pistons, rings and bearings. I’ve assembled the short block using plenty of Graphogen assembly paste and engine oil. I tried to turn the engine by hand. It’s really quite stiff, although it feels linear through 720° with no tight spots. Before I tear the engine down again to check clearances, I am wondering if you know what the torque to turn it should be? Ben Burns, London A There are no definitive figures for this, but it probably should be quite stiff. With new rings in freshly-honed bores and new bearing shells allround, there are plenty of rough surfaces that are yet to get properly acquainted. If you’re literally turning it ‘by hand’ – ie, without a breaker bar on the crank pulley – then it’s actually pretty loose. Even if it requires a standard-length ½in drive socket wrench to turn it easily, it’s fine. Try smothering the bores and bearings in oil and spend a few minutes turning it. The chances are it’ll get easier pretty quickly.

 ??  ?? The item on the left is the remains of a gauze pick-up. Rebuilt engines will be stiff to turn while their contacting surfaces become acquainted.
The item on the left is the remains of a gauze pick-up. Rebuilt engines will be stiff to turn while their contacting surfaces become acquainted.

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