EQUIPMENT AND PREPARATION

Spray gun

The gun on the left is a traditional highpressure external mixing suction-fed gun. The gun on the right is a modern high-volume low-pressure (HVLP) internal mixing gravity-fed gun. A HVLP gun creates a better finish and produces less overspray.

Protective equipment

Airborne solvents, dust and paint droplets are hazardous. Wear hooded coveralls, gloves and goggles. Use an organic vapour respirator if you’re using conventional paints. Always wear an air-fed hood if you’re using two-pack – it’s very nasty stuff.

Compressor

You need a compressor with enough free air displacement (FAD) to drive the gun, plus an air-fed hood if you’re using two-pack paint. It’s important that water traps and a decent regulator are fitted. Drain water from the tank and traps before spraying.

Source the paint

Locate your car’s paint code or find a panel that hasn’t faded. A reputable paint specialist will be able to mix the paint, offer advice as to which system to use, recommend the quantity required and sell you the associated consumables and safety gear.

Types of paint

Cellulose paint is correct for many classics and is relatively forgiving. Synthetic paints give high build but lack deep lustre. Water-based base coats require a lacquer. Two-pack gives a high build and a deep shine but requires extra safety equipment.

Final prep checks

If you’re using cellulose, the primed finish must be as smooth and scratch-free as the topcoat. Rub it down with a minimum of 600-grit wet-anddry paper, used wet. Synthetic and two-pack paints only require 320-grit abrasion. Check all masking.

Degrease and de-dust

Using a spray gun on your prepped car is like blowing it off with an air-line. It’ll release hidden dust and detritus. Pre-empt this by blowing it over with an air-gun first. Degrease the surfaces with panel wipe. Repeat if necessary, then wipe with a tack-cloth.