Classic Health Check
Edd China continues on his home-brewed classic assessment
Pre-1960 classics are no longer required to pass an MOT test and from May all ‘Historic Vehicles’ will become MOT exempt but don’t forget, even without an MOT, YOUR CAR MUST BE ROADWORTHY – BY LAW. Performing a classic car health check at home is well within the capability of most owners. You have done you walk round checks, you’ve looked at the car as a whole… you have checked for rust and done the bounce check to assess the dampers. Now it is time to look at lights, rubber and into the engine bay.
1 Lights and tyres
Check headlamps on dipped and full and check indicators for brightness, colour and an blink rate of 60-120 flashes per minute all round. Check the rear number plate lights work and break lights operate with sidelights on and off and check rear fog lights if fitted. With tyres, be on the lookout for cuts, bulges and tread depth (anywhere near to 3mm, change the tyres). Also check for cracking inside the treads and the age of the tyre. Anything over 10 years-old? Look to replace them.
2 Under the bonnet
Check wiring and the vehicle’s structure. Look around the bay for leaks. Get a helper to rock the steering while looking at rubber couplings and other joints. Then Check the brake fluid level is spot on after the brakes have been applied a few times. Finally Locate the VIN or chassis number. Ensure this is present, not damaged and fully visible.
3 Inside the car
Check your steering lock, turn the key and release it and take it to the ignition position. Turn on the ignition and check that any warning lights come on and then go out. Start the engine. Check the correct operation of the light switches and the controls. Turn the lights on to ensure the speedo is illuminated and check the glass is intact. Test the Horn, turn the steering wheel checking for free play. Don’t forget – lack of power assistance (if fitted) is a failure.
Press really hard on the brake pedal and keep it there, checking for sponginess and creep. The handbrake must latch securely. Check that the wipers haven’t perished. Check for screen damage and its location. Belts should lock into position if they are an inertia style belt and any seat belts, if fitted from new, should function and have good webbing. Finally, are the nuts and bolts for mountings secure?
4 Running checks – 6mins
Ensure your engine is well-serviced and accurately tuned and if it hasn’t been used for a while, take it for a decent run before the test. Cars first used before 1975 only require a visual check but vehicles used after August 1, 1975 will require their exhaust gases to be sniffed electronically for carbon monoxide (CO) and unburnt fuel, hydrocarbons (HC). The younger the classic, the more stringent the test, with the addition of oxygen (O2) to provide a Lambda reading.
5 On the road
Pick a route that you know well, a route that includes speed bumps, roundabouts, a fast road and an empty deserted road to carry out an emergency stop at 20mph on a smooth, empty, non-cambered road or car park. Apply the brakes and If the car pulls to one side, judders, grabs or holds on, or feels lacklustre you’ll need to investigate. If you drive a modern classic that has anti-lock brakes (ABS) you should have felt a pulsating through the brake pedal.
Apply the handbrake and then put the car into first gear and bring the clutch up (with an auto put it in D)… the car should not move. On the road listen carefully for any clonks, bumps and rattles coming from the suspension.
6 On the ramp
With wheels off the ground and the brakes off, give each wheel a good waggle to check for worn joints, rubbers and bearings. Spin the wheels and listen for grumbling bearings. Turn the steering from lock to lock to check for tight spots. Grab a lamp and look for leaky dampers and check with a bar to check for worn bushes. Now check rubber boots, CV boots and rack gaiters and on disc braked cars make a visual inspection of brake pad thickness: less than 1.5mm will fail.