Clean and assess

Give the wheels a good wash on both sides to clean off brake dust and dirt. Inspect them closely for damage. Curbing damage like this – and, indeed, worse – is definitely within the realms of DIY repair. Check for corresponding tyre damage, too.

Sort major defects

If you find any cracks, dents or deformation, a specialist repair will be required before you refinish the wheel. This wheel’s hit a pothole, distorting the rim on the inside. Don’t write off a wheel with this sort of damage: it’s surprising what can be repaired.

Choose paint

The paint on the wheels could be anything from an aged aerosol cellulose to a modern basecoat and lacquer. It’s a good idea to take a wheel to your local paint supplier. They’ll be able to exactly match the colour and advise on paint compatibility.

Mask the tyre

Nothing says ‘amateur bodge’ like paint on the tyres or an unpainted patch inside the periphery of the rim. Deflate the tyre and break the bead. Push card, masking tape or gaffer tape into the bead to mask it. Gaffer tape is the most hard-wearing.

Dress damaged areas

Use 120-grit abrasive paper to clean up scrapes and gouges. Make sure you identify and remove all high spots. Pay close attention to the rim’s periphery, where the soft alloy might have ‘smeared’ as it was dragged against a curb.

Apply filler

The gouges will be relatively shallow, so opt for a fine finishing filler. Mix it thoroughly on a clean surface in the correct ratio. Apply it to the gouges. Try to achieve the profile without applying far too much – and try to avoid incorporating air bubbles.

Apply guide coat

A guide coat will help to achieve a good finish. You can use a dusting of dark aerosol paint, as long as it’s compatible with the paint on the wheel. A dry guide coat applied with a sponge is preferable. Apply a light, uniform coat across all areas of filler.

Flat filler

Flat with 240-grit paper. Use a flat backing block if the face is flat. If it isn’t, use one that matches the profile as closely as possible. The guide coat will indicate low-spots. Use the paper hand-held around the periphery, ensuring a smooth transition.

Abrade surface

Apply another thin skim of filler or surfacer (stopper) if the guide coat is still visible in places. Finish with 400-grit paper when cured. Once you’re happy with the profile, use a Scotchbrite pad to abrade the surface to give the new paint a key.