Engine Rebuild
Install your oil pump, sump, covers, valvegear and cylinderheads
Essex V6 rebuild continues as the heads, oil pump and sump go on.
We’re continuing to reap the rewards from putting in hard work earlier on in our Essex V6 rebuild. We started with some filthy stripping, then we measured stuff, spent money on having bits machined and more money on new bits, measured everything again and got filthy again as we prepared for reassembly. Finally, we started the glamorous bit: putting it all back together.
This instalment begins with something approximating a short block, with the crankshaft, pistons and con-rods, camshaft and timing gears fitted and turning freely. As we’ve said before, the key to a happy engine and uneventful build is to keep things scrupulously clean and to get into a rhythm while you work to avoid errors. We’ve taken measures on both fronts. Firstly, we’ve confined all the dirty work to the first part of the build, where possible, so everything from here on is surgically clean. Secondly, as soon as something’s been torqued correctly, we’ve marked the head of the fastener with a paint pen so it’s easy to see what’s been done and what hasn’t.
This really should be assembly rather than anything approximating engineering. Anything that’s been machined or renewed has already been trial-assembled and the tolerances checked. You shouldn’t have any nasty surprises requiring things to be taken apart again. That said, do ensure the crankshaft turns freely after tightening any bearing – and double-check the camshaft and crankshaft end-float.
You’ll see cling film in some photos because we’ve been wrapping the engine between sessions. Give all components one last clean with brake cleaner and a blow-dry with compressed air before fitting them with assembly lubricant. Smear all gaskets with a non-setting gasket sealer (we’re using Wellseal) and apply thread-lock (we’re using Loctite 243) to any internal fastener that doesn’t have a locking device.