Practical Classics (UK)

HOW TO BUY A...

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Triumph TR4

Panel alignment is the first thing to check. If it’s poor, why is that? Has a restoratio­n been bodged or carried out by someone who hasn’t got much of a clue? Gaps should be uniform. If all is well so far, then start checking for corrosion. It can strike pretty much anywhere. Open the doors, checking their fit and examine the sills. There may be a separate chassis, but sills are still vital to hold the body together properly.

A worn bottom end will eventually knock, or cause low oil pressure, but these engines are very hardy and should be able to cover 150,000 miles between rebuilds. The steering should be free of play and be very accurate. Anything less suggests wear, so it’s a case of finding it.

A worn rack will cost around £100 to replace, but do note that while early cars had the rack solid-mounted to the chassis, later cars used rubber mounts, which degrade and allow some sogginess to creep in.

Listen out for rear axle noise, too. A tired differenti­al will howl, though it can survive for a long time in this state.

TVR Griffith

Any cracks or uneven finishes in the glassfibre bodywork point strongly to accident damage. Many Griffs have been in a shunt over the years, but check that repair work has been carried out to a high standard. Look for overspray and uneven paint matches as a sign of a cut-price job.

The Rover V8-derived engines are long-lived and simple to both service and rebuild, while there are plenty of tuning options from several recognised specialist­s. Radiators are prone to becoming blocked and then causing overheatin­g issues – an aluminium radiator is a common and popular upgrade.

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