Buyer’s Brief: Volvo 200 Series
James Walshe shows you how to buy the best.
Why do you want one?
For generations, Volvos were known for one thing: Being boxy. And it all started here. Granted, the original 140/160 were charmingly right-angled but the sheer popularity of the 1974 200-series cemented the firm’s reputation as the manufacturer of the ultimate square-edged Swedish family tank.
Having gained a reputation as one of the safest vehicles on the road, Volvo sold 2.8-million of these sturdy beasts over almost 20 years of production. It might have looked unusual compared to other cars at the time, but beneath the skin lay genuine design innovation. It was far stronger and safer than rivals, with standard dual-circuit disc brakes all round, a laminated windscreen, crumple zones, rear seatbelt mountings, side impact bars and a collapsible steering column. It took years for others to catch up. While this is an iconic car, it’s one you can happily live with every day. Here are some handy tips...
Which model do I want?
The numbers on the boot lid of 1974-1982 cars are actually straightforward. The first number denotes model series, the second is the number of cylinders and the third is the number of doors.
After 1983, the third digit no longer denoted body style and you got either a four-pot 240 or a sixcylinder 260. For the purposes of this guide, we’re focusing on the post ‘83 cars but the advice on what to look for is very similar.
If you do go older, you’re in the realms of real rarities – such as the 262C or 242 GT. Expect to pay a whole lot more!
With the ‘83 facelift cars, there are numerous four-cylinder engines available, ranging from a 2-litre unit to a 2.3 and a diesel. The six-cylinder V6 version (engine shared with Peugeot, Renault and Talbot) ended up as an estate model only but was killed off in 1986, leaving four-cylinder models only. That coincided with another facelift, although not a huge amount changed until 1993, when the 200 series was finally pensioned off. Final cars were all estates and these are the versions yo are most likely to find for sale.
What should I look for?
Rattles on 240 startup are normal, but engines are sensitive to frequent oil changes. Head gaskets can go, so check the oil and water for signs of contamination. Gearboxes tend not to give trouble, so check for smooth action and be wary of transmission noise in autos and manuals alike.
Fuel injected cars can be consigned to spares/ repair-status because of undiagnosed starting issues. Check the injection pump relay – it’s in the boot – they often fail. Newer B28 and B280 sixes can suffer ignition and injection problems.
Check the bounce and rebound of all four dampers, as well as testing them for leaks. These cars were fairly softly sprung when new, but that’s no excuse for excessive bouncing. The brakes are good; an emergency stop test should see the car pull up straight very quickly.
The biggest rot spot is the windscreen surround. Anything here is bad news, as it’s a screen out job to repair. Fortunately, the screens aren’t bonded, but they’re prone to delamination. Wheel arches, damper mountings, wings and sills go and if there have been screen surround issues check the floors.
Interiors are fairly hard-wearing in Volvo 240s, though it’s rare to find a car with door pockets intact. Check the heater matrix doesn’t leak (damp carpets will be a sign), wipers can fail (an awkward job) and tailgate wiring on the estates is fiddly.
Rear wiper, heated rear window, central locking and numberplate wiring is routed through the hinge area. Have a look at the fusebox, which lives in the passenger footwell. Fuses can corrode over time. Check them all - especially, where fitted, the fuse for the fuel injection system. Overcome all that and you can expect that legendary dependability, as well as a lot of love from the public, clubs and fellow owners.