Modelling: ‘Laserglaze’ for locos

One of the most difficult things to replicate convincingly in scale modelling is locomotive cab glazing of any type. ‘Laserglaze’ by Shawplan Models is a useful product that helps achieve the flat appearance associated with locomotive glazing. We show you

How to fit Laserglaze by Shawplan in three popular ‘OO’ gauge diesel locomotive models.

GLAZING is one of the areas that has seen significant advances in ready to run locomotives in recent years. Flush-fitting moulded glazing units are now a given in all ‘OO’ gauge (4mm scale) locomotive models and the improvement it makes in the overall appearance of the model is much welcomed by modellers, even though it can vary in quality frommodel to model, depending on when it was introduced.

Glazing is always going to be a challenge for modellers and manufacturers. On one hand, it is a vital feature of a model because it impacts on how the ‘face’ of a locomotive appears to the eye. On the other hand, injection moulded plastic body shells in both ‘OO’ and ‘N’ gauge have to be strong enough to withstand regular handling and allow intricate detail to be moulded into them, resulting in them being thicker than the metal sheet used in full-size locomotives would be when scaled down.

This ‘thickness’ has to be overcome by the moulded glazing pieces used for windscreens and cab side windows to make the model appear as if it is composed of sheet metal with windows fitted to a frame and the end result is not always as convincing as one might wish.

Why replace moulded glazing?

Moulded flush glazing goes a long way to achieving the right look to a locomotive cab, but has its limitations. Mouldings are sometimes thicker than scale glazing to match the body shell, giving them a slightly distorted appearance. Sometimes, the mouldings

have a slight curve or bow to the surface, which is the case with the Hornby Class 56, which does not look convincing – it should be flat.

Gaps between the body shell and glazing inserts are also common, as is the use of less than clear plastic. Finally, to ease the manufacturing process, glazing inserts are often tooled with more than one window in each moulding resulting in an edge around the outside of each window.

This edge is particularly prominent in many models and is difficult to disguise.

Replacing the factory-fitted moulded glazing will do much to improve the appearance of otherwise nicely proportioned models or those that have been refinished, as was the case of the three examples shown in this article. Laserglaze results in glazing that looks both flat and as if it was a piece of glass fitted to the frame.

Furthermore, Laserglaze can be used to replace damaged or missing glazing pieces. Those modellers using battered and damaged models for reworking and conversions (which was the case of the Heljan Class 33 model

shown in this article) will find Laserglaze particularly useful. A Laserglaze pack provides a full set of windows allowing the model to be restored to full running order and with better ‘glass’!

The product

Laserglaze is an important part of the Shawplan Models detailing part range and can be used to enhancemodels whether they have been detailed and repainted or not. Each fret of glazing is carefully cut with each unit sized and shaped to fit a particular model. Research the product before buying because theremay be different packs for the same class of locomotive.

For example, Hornby Class 56s have different glazing sizes depending on the build: the Romanian-built Class 56s have different windows to those constructed in the UK and two different Laserglaze packs are available as a result.

The glazing material is both flat and thin, as close to glass as can be achieved from plastic sheet material. When you open the packet, the glazing is incorporated in a flat fret with the window units fixed at opposite corners. It is pre-shaped making installation easier over using clear plastic sheet and cutting one’s own.

Model preparation

When stripping a model of its glazing, take care to recover any separate windscreen wiper details. One of the pitfalls of using Laserglaze becomes apparent when the factory fitted injection moulded glazing is examined in some models such as the Hornby Class 56. The manner in which the glazing plugs into the openings also makes an anchor point for cab interiors and bodyshell to chassis clips through integrally moulded clips into the glazing units. Check your model for such

anchor points and separate them from the rest of the glazing so they can be glued back in the body shell. Otherwise, refitting some interior fittings might prove to be awkward.

A technique for overcoming the visual appearance of thick plastic body shells, evenwhen using thin glazing, is to apply back around the inside of the window openings. This technique is particularly effectivewith liveries where locomotives have a warning panel applied over all of the cab fronts such as rail blue livery or the engine room windows in a Class 33 painted in ‘Dutch’ livery.

Be aware that Laserglaze is precisely sized and cut, so excessive amounts of paint applied to the inside of the window frames will prevent it from fitting smoothly. You either have to gently remove a small amount from around each glazing piece or reduce the amount of paint in each opening. Some modellers will ensure that this problem does not occur by stripping factory applied paint from their models before refinishing. Also consider running a little wet and dry around the openings to remove any moulding line that may prevent the glazing from fitting. This should be done as part of bodyshell preparation prior to painting.

Finally, if planning to use new etched metal windscreen wipers, prepare and prime them before painting them black. Be sure that they are completely dry before the finishing stage of fitting Laserglaze.

Fitting Laserglaze

The process is very straightforward.

The individual pieces of glazing can be gently broken out of the fret, leaving tiny tags in the corners where it was attached – avoid fingerprints and dust if you can when preparing the glazing pieces. The tags must be filed down and the corners rounded slightly to fit the model. Fine grade abrasive paper will smooth off the tags and can be used to gently resize the glazing if it does not slot in with a gentle interference fit, perfectly first time. Check that the glazing is not distorted before applying your choice of adhesive.

A gentle interference fit is required to hold the glazing firmly enough for adhesive to be run around the inside of the frame. Suitable adhesives include thinned clear gloss varnish or Johnson’s ‘Klear’ or ‘Future’ floor wax which has been sufficiently thinned to flow around the edges of the glazing through capillary action. Apply with

a No. 0 or No. 1 paint brush and run it into the edge of the glazing from the inside of the body shell carefully to avoid marking the inside of the glazing. Excess material will also flow on to the inside surface, so apply the adhesive sparingly in several applications and not in one go. Excess can be soaked up with the corner of a scrap of kitchen towel, it should not be necessary to coat the glazing surface to secure it in place.

Detailing and finishing

Let’s assume that you are happy with your new glazing and it has fitted well with no gaps between the glazing and frames. It is level and

flat too, allowing the final process to be completed. Refit the original windscreen wipers or new etched brass ones which will have been painted black before fitting.

A trick to further add realism to cab front glazing is to replicate the use of windscreen wipers. Study photographs of howwindscreen wiper blades leave an arc of clean glass. Trim masking tape to shape and apply it to the front windscreens where the wiper would clean the glass. Apply a tiny quantity of matt varnish with an airbrush to represent the less clean area surrounding the arc before immediately and carefully remove the masking.

The effect will add a further detail to a detailed and weathered model, but requires a light touch to be convincing.

All that remains is to reassemble the model, assuming that all other detailing work and weathering is complete. The reality is, though, that locomotive glazing is rarely totally clear. However, losing the edge resulting from moulded glazing and the curve sometimes introduced in some model locomotive glazing can transform the ‘face’ of locomotive models, making the hour or so of work well worth the effort.

One of the models treated with ‘Laserglaze’ in this article is a Bachmann Class 47. Two RfD Class 47 locomotives show their cab glazing at Tinsley in 1998. Note the wear in the black applied to the window area and cab doors. Replicating that level of wear convincingly without makingamodel look tatty is challenging in any scale.

Glazing is one of the more important details applied to model locomotives because it can have a significant impact on the appearance ofa model’s ‘face’. The panes of glass fitted to the cab of a Class 56 is flat, unlike the slight curve in the windscreens of the Hornbymodel. Note that the glass is not always totally clear.

Virtually all ready to run models can benefit from new glazing. The three locomotives in this view all have their original mouldings. Note the edge around the outside of the windows and thick appearance of the mouldings.

Class 33 No. 33025 shows off its nice flat glazing and twin arm windscreen wipers. Laserglaze is used to achieve the effect of flat glass fitted to a frame without any edge around the outside. Note that the silver trim is a strip of metal screwed in place, a feature that can be applied with a silver paint pen such as a ‘Sharpie’.

Preparing etched brass windscreen wipers for the Class 33/0 glazing project. This set of double arm wipers is by Shawplan Models.

Close-up pictures are always hard on a ‘OO’ gaugemodel. The newglazing stands up well to scrutiny. However, the over-size moulded windscreen wipers do not and etched ones will have to be applied.

The headcode box window of Class 33s are fitted with the new window material but without adhesive allowing the paper blind detail to be changed if desired.

Out with the old and in with Laserglaze which is supplied on a fret. Take care to save any integral glazing and body clip mouldings for separation and refitting.

Paint pens loaded with permanent black pigment are excellent aids for patching up around the glazing, should the paint become scratched during the project.

Hornby Class 56 cab fixings aremoulded integrally with the cab side glazing. The clips are separated and glued back into place.

Two Bachmann Class 47s, one with Laserglaze (rear) and one with the original mouldings. Which one looks better?

Two different Laserglaze packs may be available for a specific class including the Hornby Class 56 which has a pack for BRbuilt locomotives and one for Romanianbuilt locomotives.

A clear adhesive in the form of varnish or similar material is run around the edges of the opening to secure the Laserglaze. Capillary action will do the job for you in most cases.