AN OWNER SPEAKS

I’ve had many classic bikes and currently own a 1954 Ariel Red Hunter. I always have an MZ on hand for when everything else has broken. Try to find an MZ that has been used regularly rather than polished and kept in the shed. They’re generally reliable but don’t like being sat for long periods and will give you grief for a few weeks when pushed back into service. This of course applies to most classic bikes, but 2-strokes in particular do not like being sat for long. If you can find an original machine rather than one restored with pattern parts this is preferable, because the quality of many aftermarket parts leaves a lot to be desired.

The first thing to check and upgrade are the electrics. Modern solid state regulators and blade type fuse boxes are cheap to buy and will cure many problems; the original fuse boxes are very poor and responsible for a lot of breakdowns. Electronic ignition kits are highly recommended and cost as little as £60. Exact ignition timing is important on MZs for optimum performance and reduces the risk of a high speed seize.

Carbs are worth rebuilding or replacing, either with a Bing from a later MZ or a Mikuni. The original BVF carbs now mostly worn out. A rattling slide is the giveaway: this causes a lack of tickover and lumpy running and flat spots.

Chains need to be run slacker than you might be used to or damage to the gearbox bearings will result. The fully enclosed chain is a godsend. I only adjust mine every 10,000 miles! Half a tub of grease stuffed under the engine cover sorts out lubrication.

Change the gearbox oil (EP80) every 3000 miles. The clutch seems to last forever, but it is mounted on a taper on the end of the crank. If it comes loose it could ruin your crankshaft, so if you take it off, make sure it’s clean and done up as tight as you can. This was originally a safety device: if the engine seizes at speed then the clutch should fly off the crank and disengage drive, rather than throw the rider off!

MZs can be left outside all year round and ridden in all weathers. A high aluminium content in their construction, and tough, thick steel means they are very resilient to rust. My ETZ 250 has never been garaged and still cleans up well. The edges of the mudguards can corrode and the lower part of the frame where the footrests mount can rot out. Mudflaps help keep road salt and dirt away.

After purchase you have to push through the teething problems. Many MZs get used as winter hacks and never get sorted. Once fettled, once you have got through the niggly stage you will be rewarded by a very willing, reliable, low maintenance machine. I change gearbox oil every 3000 miles; spark plug every 6000 and tweak the chain every 5000. Fuel economy is not brilliant for the size. TS models do around 90mpg, later ETZ models around 65mpg plus 2-stroke oil. I use semi-synthetic bought in bulk online, a lot cheaper than going to Halfords!

The MZRC are fantastic and a must for anyone keen on getting into MZs. They are very active and very helpful.

Dan Rodd