RC READERS RECOMMEND
THE TS RANGE look good, but mechanically the ETZs are best, particularly the 250/251 models. The 300/301 has more torque. They’re simple to maintain and ride well, but can kick back if timing isn’t right. I currently have an ETZ. Chris Taylor FOR MODERN CONVENIENCE, go 12V and avoid pre-mixing 2-stroke oil, find a ETZ 250 or 251 model. For classic feel, go for the ES or TS 250 models. Dave Jones I JUST RESTORED A BANTAM, followed by an MZ. The MZ is way better engineered than the Bantam. The alloy is really good, but the steel is what you need to check on the mudguards and sidepanels, and the bottom, back corners of the petrol tank because water from ethanol petrol collects there. The MZ Shop in the UK is great for spares, and it’s worth pricing up bulk orders from Ost2rad in Germany. Watch out for pattern parts: a spacer for the sidestand from India was 3mm out! Colin King
BE CAREFUL if you change to fully synthetic oil without de-coking first. If the piston or head has carbon deposits on it, then the synthetic oil will turn the carbon to a hard crumb as it cleans as it burns. Some people reckon this will exit via the exhaust port but I wouldn’t risk it! Desmo Dtm
CHECK THE HARD plastic items. I found the mouldings could be somewhat brittle even when new. Mark Fielder
DON’T OVER-TIGHTEN the drive chain. The correct tension seems way too much play by normal standards, but the chain gaiters have a square section ridge inside that’s supposed to run along the rollers as a guide. The rubber gaiter acts like a slipper tensioner, but if the chain is too tight it runs clear of the ridge and allows the gaiter to bow and contact the sides of the chain, wearing a hole in the gaiter (as well as overloading the gearbox bearing). Follow the manual’s instructions, and it’ll be fine. Chris Graham
THE TS MODEL with disc brakes is much more pleasant to ride than the ETZ model. Charlie Bulloch BRILLIANT BIKES, QUIRKY TOO, though their days as ultra-cheap unnoticed classics are numbered. TS or ES look best, Trophy was the most comfortable for a tall man. None of mine had the TLS Japanese brake upgrade but I just rode within the brake’s limits. Simon Lock
GREAT TO RIDE and simple to maintain. For TS250s, ignore stories of fragile bearings; that was y-e-a-r-s ago. They handle very well and are well made and immensely practical. Stewart Ellinson
I’VE HAD TWO TS250 Super Fives. Both suffered from failed main bearings, and one needed a new big end. I did the Honda 2ls brake mod, which saved my bacon a few times, the standard brake was very poor. Best bits were the rubbermounted engine which had lots of lowdown torque; well-damped suspension and the enclosed rear chain. They aren’t that cheap any more. Chris Maughan
ON ETZ 250s: check the lower end of the of the frame carefully; they are prone to rusting here and difficult to repair. On a test ride, check it stays in third gear under power – wear in the selector fork accelerates rapidly, requiring the replacement of the fork and a couple of gears. On a long trip on an oil pumpequipped model, top the oil tank up every time you refuel: the range of a full petrol tank is greater than the range of the oil tank once the level has become visible in the sight glass. I seized mine towards the end of a 250 mile motorway journey due to this. Luke Duller