Real Classic

TO SOLDER OR NOT?

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I soldered virtually every joint I made until 1978 when I found a Ministry of Defence report that challenged this approach. I was working on new warships that had hundreds of miles of cables and tens of thousands of joints and connection­s. As the ships went to sea for the first time wiring defects would emerge, most of which were down to poor workmanshi­p or poorly routed cables. However there were persistent failures that could not be explained and continued to emerge in service. A study revealed that a group of failures were that the copper core had separated from the soldered connector, usually with what looked like a miniature floret of copper strands.

At the time, all cable ends were tinned with solder before being crimped or soldered to the connector, with a rubber sleeve covering the joint. Analysis of the broken joints revealed metal fatigue failure of the copper strands where they met the solder. The results were replicated on a testbed where vibration was revealed as the key factor. Under vibration the copper strands were workharden­ing where they met the solder and eventually failing.

The study looked at ways of reducing failures; heated insulation strippers that left no fatigue-inducing marks and stiffer heat shrink sleeves improved the situation. However the biggest improvemen­t was achieved by not tinning the conductors on crimped joints.

The study struck a chord. My motorcycle­s certainly vibrated, I had seen joints fail at the solder junction and I had also occasional­ly seen the miniature floret of copper strands. Since then I have used crimped joints where possible. However if a joint has to be soldered, I use at least two layers of heat shrink sleeves to protect the joint.

 ??  ?? Larger crimp.Idealforba­tteryconne­ction
Larger crimp.Idealforba­tteryconne­ction

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