OYSTERS WITH MIGNONETTE

I grew up with oysters, but had never really taken to them. Then, in one year, I made two trips to New York where they were a constant presence – and cheap. Every bar had an ‘oyster happy hour’ when they sold for a dollar each. I started to eat them every day and fell in love with the craggy bivalve and its plump, salty insides.

Serves: 4

Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus infusing

24 oysters

Crushed ice or rock salt, to serve For the mignonette:

150ml Champagne vinegar or good-quality red wine vinegar 2tbsp shallots, very finely chopped 2tsp white peppercorns, coarsely ground

1 Mix everything for the mignonette in a jar, shake it, then put it in the fridge for 1 day, to allow time for the shallots to flavour the vinegar.

2 Make sure you have an oyster knife; don’t try to shuck oysters with a regular kitchen knife. Rinse the oysters and throw away any that are open and don’t close if you tap them against the sink.

3 Place an oyster flat-side up on a work surface. Grip it with a tea towel to help protect your hand, leaving the narrow hinged-end exposed. Place the tip of the knife between the top and bottom shells next to the hinge. Push it into the shell, twisting and wiggling, to release the top shell. It may seem like you aren’t getting there, but keep going, with gentle pressure, until it pops open. Try to keep the oyster level, so the delicious liquor (the briny, salty sea water) stays in the deeper bowl of the bottom shell. Wipe your knife, then release the shell completely by inserting the tip in a few other spots and twisting. Keeping the oyster level, run your knife along the upper shell to cut the oyster from the top shell. Remove the top shell. Run your knife along the lower shell and gently cut the oyster free. Leave it nestled in the shell. (If you open an oyster that has a strong, sulphurous smell, chuck it out: it’s dead.)

4 Transfer each oyster in its shell to a bed of crushed ice or rock salt to keep it level, while you open the rest. Serve immediately, with the mignonette; you’ll need about 1tsp for each oyster.