ONGLET WITH ROAST BEETS & HORSERADISH CREAM

‘I love how much pleasure people take in the city’s food markets’

Also known as hanger steak, an onglet is about 3cm thick and shaped like a small, fat snake. It is slightly chewy and has a good gamey flavour. London-based chef Neil Rankin taught me how to cook steak (the instructions for all cuts are in his book, Low

And Slow) and it works every time. Serves: 4

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: About 45 minutes

500g small raw beetroots ●●

Regular olive oil ●●

Sea salt flakes and freshly ground ●● black pepper

125ml double cream ●●

1tbsp wholegrain mustard, or to taste ●● 3tbsp freshly grated horseradish ●● Splash of white wine vinegar (optional) ●● Pinch of caster sugar (optional) ●●

4 x 250g onglet steaks (keep them ●● in the fridge)

Flavourless oil or beef dripping, to fry ●●

1 Preheat the oven to 210°C (190°C fan) mark 6.

2 Trim beetroots and wrap in foil, moistening with a little regular olive oil and seasoning before you seal the packet; don’t wrap it too tightly. Place in a roasting tin and cook until tender; it should take about 30–35min. Test with the point of a knife, it should pass through with no resistance. When cool enough to handle, peel, quarter and season the beetroots; they can be served at room temperature.

3 Reduce the oven temperature to 140°C (120°C fan) mark 1. Put in an empty roasting tin or baking sheet large enough to hold all the steaks.

4 Whip the cream; add the mustard and horseradish. Add the white wine vinegar and sugar, if using.

5 Cover the surface of each steak with baking parchment then bash it with the base of a saucepan to make it a bit less round (don’t overdo this).

6 Set the heat dial about ¾ of the way round; heat 2 frying pans 7-10min ahead of cooking. Add a tiny bit of flavourless oil to the pan; if it smokes, it’s hot enough to cook in. Heat a little oil or beef dripping then add 2 steaks to each pan; press down with tongs to get the surfaces in touch with the pan’s base. Move the steaks around all the time, seasoning and making sure each one is browning all over. Listen for the sizzle: when the steak is quiet, move it. If the meat is getting too dark, reduce the heat; if it’s staying too light, increase the heat.

7 Transfer the steaks to the hot tin or sheet in the oven; continue to cook for about 5min for medium-rare (onglet is best served medium-rare). Neil Rankin (see recipe introduction) doesn’t rest his steak. Using a really sharp knife, slice each steak against the grain. Serve with the roast beets and the horseradish cream. A handful of green leaves is good on the side.