SANTA BARBARA
California
Blame it on my pony-mad adolescence, but as I clip-clop my way towards the deserted golden sands of Summerland Beach in Santa Barbara astride an elegant horse called Hayes, under a clear blue Californian sky, I’ve found my happy place. Mentally ticking off a bucket list goal, while idling pondering if my non-teenage thighs will be regretting the beach ride tomorrow, I barely register the tiny, toned blonde cycling past, well-used yoga mat in her bike basket. But when she stops to chat to our garrulous guide and owner of the stables, Charlie, the penny drops: it’s Portia de Rossi. Charlie’s already pointed out the mansion that she and wife Ellen Degeneres share in this exclusive neighbourhood of Montecito, and now he confides,
‘She wants to buy my horse…’
It’s all a touch surreal, but as an introduction to Santa Barbara, it couldn’t be more perfect. If your ideal beach break involves sun, sea and celebrities, with a foodie twist, this cool seaside town on the west coast of America ticks all the right boxes. Just 90 minutes from Los Angeles, this stretch of coastline – dubbed the American Riviera – is a haven for showbiz royalty, and the Hotel Belmond El Encanto encapsulates the romance and glamour of old
Hollywood. Once a haven for screen stars like Clark Gable, it’s just emerged from a seven-year, multi-million dollar refurb. Strolling towards my Spanish-colonial style bungalow (one of 92, all dotted around seven acres of lush vegetation and turtle ponds), listening to the buzzing of the cicadas, my happy place just got a whole lot happier.
I could gladly spend my entire stay in my jaw-droppingly beautiful room, with its plantation-style shutters and patio, but Santa Barbara is waiting. So after a late breakfast on the terrace overlooking the shimmering Pacific, we take the short drive into town. There, the pristine palm tree-lined beach makes a beautiful backdrop to the white low-rise Spanishmoorish style buildings. In the squares, orange trees shade the tiled fountains,
while purple bougainvillaea spills from terracotta pots. From the courthouse clock tower, the views across the red-tiled roofs to the Santa Ynez Mountains are dazzling.
We explore The Funk Zone – the bohemian area of town, where small independent wineries and restaurants sit alongside art and craft studios and surfboard makers. Here we grab a tasty $2 taco from Mony’s, which serves authentic Mexican street food at a bargain price. Later we have delicious paella followed by churros with dipping sauces at cool Spanish restaurant Loquita.
The beach-town vibe makes it easy to relax, but there’s plenty to do there, too. We rent bikes and pedal along the cycle lanes that hug the coast. At the harbour, fishing boats unload their catches of red snapper and sea urchins, ready for that evening’s diners. Another bucket list item is a sunset cruise, so one evening we board the Double Dolphin, a 50-foot catamaran, going out to sea and spotting seals, and sipping champagne as the sun dips over the horizon.
For our final few days, we move on to the Hotel Californian. Newly opened on the beachfront, with dramatic interiors by Martyn Lawrence Bullard, who’s designed the homes of Cher and the Kardashians, it’s bold, shiny and classy. With a strong Portuguese and Spanish influence, the array of tiles is dazzling (there are 27 different designs throughout), and the rooftop pool and bar with panoramic views across the ocean proves the perfect place to chill out.
When it comes to California dreaming, Santa Barbara has it all.
KAREN SWAYNE