I’LL HAVE WHAT SHE’S HAVING… Three experts share their secrets to complexion perfection
What really works in skincare, and what’s next? Alice Manning quizzes three noticeably fresh-faced experts
If you have Botox in small ‘micro’ doses that are injected strategically, it can make a massive difference to the upper portion of the face, getting rid of the first signs of wrinkles on the forehead, lifting the eyebrows and opening up the eyes. I’m also a massive fan of Q Switch laser – Dr Asif Hussein is my secret weapon – which is the best laser for treating individual superficial pigmentation spots and blotchy skin. For more serious sun damage, I always suggest Halo laser, but it does come with one week’s downtime.
I have Ultracel with Dr Nyla Raja, the queen of this treatment. It combines ultrasound and radio frequency to tighten and lift the skin from underneath; great for smoothing out wrinkles, defining the jawline and contouring cheekbones. The other thing I couldn’t live without is Profhilo injectable runny-textured hyaluronic acid, which I have every six weeks. I see Dr Hala Mahfoud, who has the gentlest touch. You have two sessions four to six weeks apart and it’s like putting an airbrush filter on your skin. It’s fantastic if you have a crêpey neck, too. I am also a believer in beauty from the inside, so I take Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Ultimate, £72, daily. It’s a complete vitamin regime for your hair, skin and nails.
I just tried an alternative to Botox called Jeuveau, from South Korea. It’s currently only available in the USA, but will come to the UK soon. It’s likely to be about a quarter of the price of Botox, which will make it more accessible and a bit of a game-changer. Artificial intelligence is big news, too: L’occitane’s patented device, Duolab, £250, has been designed to pre-empt the skin’s needs by using two forms of
AI; the first identifies skin problems via a questionnaire and photo-analysis, while the second generates a unique skincare blend for the user. It looks like an air purifier and comes with little capsules, £1.25 each (all recyclable), which contain the cream and various concentrates. Hydrogenated water is also going to be A Thing. It has big claims, including helping to lower cholesterol, maintain a slim physique, boost performance in the gym and reduce stress and anxiety. Dr Michael Prager is ahead of the curve, offering it in facials, inhalation treatments and water bottles. Definitely one to watch.
Dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible, Anjali Mahto, is known for her wizardry in treating acne and pigmentation.
It’s boring, I know, but sunscreen with broad-spectrum UVA, UVB and HEVL (high-energy visible light) protection is so key. HEVL is also known as ‘blue light’ and dermatologists recognise that it can contribute to pigmentation, particularly in dark skin types. The blue light that comes from electronic devices is significantly less than that from natural daylight, but it’s only now that
sunscreen manufacturers are thinking of HEVL. If you’re concerned about dark patches, uneven skin tone and ageing, try a product like Heliocare, which protects from multiple light wavelengths. I am a fan of lasers for acne and acne scarring, and peels for hyperpigmentation. There are superficial peels that target the upper layers of skin, but most people would benefit from a medium-depth peel, which has more downtime (seven days) but is really great for brightening.
I swear by a non-invasive tightening treatment called Ultherapy, which
I have once a year. It uses ultrasound energy to tighten the neck, jawline and lower face. Ultrasound waves work on the deeper skin layers and trigger a wound-healing response to help generate more collagen. I would always choose non-invasive procedures where possible.
There are a number of chemical ingredients in sunscreens on the European watch list at the moment, such as oxybenzone. Hawaii has already banned some due to the potential damage these chemicals cause to coral reefs, and there’s a lot of data coming out to suggest that manufacturers will need to change the way they produce sun protection products, to prevent harming marine life. I’m also hoping to see the back of the multi-step routine. You don’t need to have 10 different steps in your routine, both from a sustainability perspective and also because the more you throw at your skin, the less you’ll get an idea of what works best for you, and the more likely you’ll be to develop irritation.
I’m less concerned with what’s new and prefer things that are tried and tested, with good evidence behind them. In terms of ingredients, I always look to retinol, which is proven to minimise fine lines and help with skin texture, and vitamin C – great for with pigmentation and general brightening. Hyaluronic acid is fantastic for attracting water to the skin and giving it a juicy glow. I love glycolic acid for its ability to increase the turnover of skin cells, and salicylic acid to unclog pores and help with the inflammatory side of acne.
My regime is very simple. I use a gel cleanser in the morning and evening, and a balm cleanser first if I’m wearing make-up. In the mornings, I’ll use an antioxidant serum from Skinceuticals (a serious product if you care about your skin) followed by sunscreen. If my face feels very dry, I’ll step up my routine with Elequra Deep Nourishing Cream, £56, and Complete Replenishing Oil, £48. La Roche-posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Lips, £7, is the only thing that stops my lips from chapping. I’m also a fan of Botox and peels: in the right hands, they give relatively predictable results.
Research into the skin’s microbiome (the microorganisms that live on our skin) is intriguing: we’re still only at the start of our understanding. How it affects conditions such as acne and eczema is especially interesting, and there will be many biome-focused skincare ranges to come. I’m not convinced by skincare based on your DNA, and nobody that I’ve spoken to has been able to convert me. I don’t feel there is enough evidence to prove that the results you’d get would be any better than using products that have years of research behind them. Maybe in a few decades, but not now.