UNDER COVER
Face masks could be with us for some time. Their inflammatory side-kick ‘maskne’? Hopefully not so much. Here’s how the beauty world is aiming to keep skin clear (and make-up in place)
Got a bad case of ‘maskne’? Here’s how to fix it
Scallop-cut silk from The Vampire’s Wife, Tana Lawn from Liberty London or an iconic Fornasetti print? If face masks are the fashion accessory no one wanted, at least we’ve worn them well. ‘I suspect face coverings will be with us for most of 2021,’ says Dr Sophie Shotter, the anaesthetist turned cosmetic doctor who returned to the NHS during lockdown to help in intensive care. ‘Vaccine roll-out will be gradual, while masks and social distancing will remain the norm. I wear a medical-grade mask for 10 hours a day but, luckily, my skin hasn’t been affected. I use good skincare from clinical brands such as Skinceuticals and Skinbetter Science, and my foundation is breathable [Oxygenetix Oxygenating Foundation, £45]’. Dr Shotter also mists regularly with Clinisept+, an anti-bacterial solution used for speedier healing in aesthetic clinics. Its sister product, Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier, from £14.95, is the beauty hero no one saw coming, treating not just acne but (as Red’s beauty team can vouch) perioral dermatitis, a rosacea-related rash also triggered by face masks. ‘Don’t overdo your active ingredients in the day,’ adds Dr Shotter. ‘Whatever you wear will be trapped against your skin. Keep it clean and gentle.’
Unctuous winter creams are another complication, says Dr Dendy Engelman, consultant dermatologist for Elizabeth Arden. Engelman coined the term ‘maskne’, after noting unusual skin conditions in her New York practice, created by the friction between mask and skin, a disrupted microbiome, and pores becoming clogged by make-up underneath. Thicker skincare, she warns, will only block further. Her advice is to ‘layer, layer, layer, to retain moisture without resorting to heavy creams.’ Hyaluronic acid is helpful here, ideally alongside barrier-rebuilding ceramides. Oskia Isotonic Hydra-serum, £78, and Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Ceramide Capsules, from £45, have both; follow with your simplest day cream – try Farmologie Moisturiser, £3.49, or Alpha-h Essential Hydration Cream, from £21.
As for the mask itself, ask a hairdresser. ‘The first thing clients used to say when they sat down was, “Do you have a phone charger?” Now it’s, “Which mask are you wearing?”’ sighs Vicky Demetriou, senior stylist at Larry King. With back-to-back appointments, Demetriou’s skin can be covered from morning to night. ‘It’s the same for everyone in the salon. When we went back to work in July, we all exploded in spots.’ Six months and much research later, her mask-wearing protocol is near-perfect. ‘Okay, I get some bumps but no break-outs’. Disposable masks were out (you can’t work alongside the sustainably-minded King without becoming deeply concerned with waste) as was silk, although favoured by many dermatologists for breathability and minimal friction. ‘Pure silk is hard to sew together, so cheaper masks are often bulked up with polyester, which is less breathable and doesn’t biodegrade,’ she says. Red’s favourite, Slip Face Covering, £39, ticks the pure silk box and has the recommended three layers, but for practicality, Demetriou went with multiple packs of organic cotton. ‘Cotton,’ she adds, ‘because they go into the wash daily, organic because growing practices are better, and multiple because I’ve found that the best way to keep skin clear is to change my mask every few hours. I get through three a day.’
Demetriou also stopped wearing make-up (on the advice of a long-time client, facialist Debbie Thomas), bar brushing up her brows with gel. Make-up artist Gina Kane agrees. ‘I want to feel as clean as possible, so I wear nothing on my skin. Eyebrows and lashes are where I would concentrate. Finesse with a good mascara and groom your brows. Don’t go overboard or you’ll look unbalanced when the mask comes off.’ For anyone self-conscious without colour, a skincare-grade tan can take the edge off (try Pestle & Mortar’s brilliant hyaluronic-boosted Glow Drops, £35), while one of Kane’s clients raves about Chanel Les Beiges Water-fresh Tint, £48, for non-transference. Or just touch up around nose and mouth with a concealer that’s not too creamy and set with an airy powder; Kane likes Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage Concealer, £30, and Kett Cosmetics Kett HD Powder, £19.50. If cheeks are a must, Glossier Cloud Paint, £15, and Beauty Pie Supercheek Elastic Powder Blush, from £7.75 for members, both have excellent durability. ‘Then have a lipstick in your pocket, ready to go,’ says Kane. Beyond that, the sooner you can cleanse after removing your mask, the better. ‘That’s when I get the sensation back into my skin with a deep double-cleanse – I massage Emma Hardie Amazing Face Moringa Cleansing Balm [from £30] or Augustinus Bader The Cleansing Balm [£55] along my jawline to release tension and boost circulation,’ says Kane. ‘I also use an LED mask for 10 minutes in the evening, which helps prevent breakouts [The Light Salon Boost LED Face Mask, £395].’ The overnight window is when Arden’s Dr Engelman recommends using richer oils and creams, after treating blemishes with salicylic acid. ‘It’s anti-inflammatory, which minimises acne formation and decreases congestion,’ she says. If you’re not ordinarily oily, swab toner on to a Garnier Micellar Reusable Eco Pad, £8.99 for 3, and hold for a few seconds on problem areas. Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Lotion Exfoliant, £28, is a firm favourite here at Red.
‘THE SOONER YOU CAN CLEANSE AFTER REMOVING YOUR MASK, THE BETTER’