HOW I GOT HERE Clare Smyth reflects on her culinary career journey

Clare Smyth MBE, the first female chef to have a three Michelin starred restaurant in the UK, reflects on her 24-year culinary career

Clare Smyth, whose debut restaurant Core is in London’s Notting Hill, always wanted to be a chef. After leaving school at 16, she completed an apprenticeship, before landing her first job at Bibendum, South Kensington. Four years later, she went on to work for two of the world’s greatest chefs, Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse, and opened Core in 2017. Cooking for Prince Harry’s wedding and being named the world’s ‘best female chef’ at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants gala in Spain are just a few of her accolades.

AS A CHILD, I DID LOTS OF COOKING. Growing up on a farm in County Antrim, Northern Ireland, I was surrounded by fresh produce. When I was 15, I worked as a waitress in a local restaurant, but I was always drawn to the creativity of the kitchen. Eventually, after the chef taught me how to make sauces and fillet fish, I started to help cook the food.

AFTER SCHOOL, I MOVED TO PORTSMOUTH TO DO AN APPRENTICESHIP.

I studied catering at college one day a week and the rest of the time I’d cook in the kitchen. The day after I got my qualifications, I headed to London to start work as a junior chef at Bibendum. It was tough; I was only 18 and worked 19-hour days – but I loved it.

WHEN I STARTED WORKING AT RESTAURANT GORDON RAMSAY, IT WAS

A DIFFERENT WORLD. The standard of food was phenomenal. People get a certain impression of Gordon from TV, but he’s one of the best teachers I’ve ever had. I became a senior sous chef there, before leaving to work at Alain Ducasse’s flagship restaurant Le Louis XV in Monaco.

WHEN GORDON CALLED ASKING IF I’D COME BACK TO BE HIS HEAD CHEF, IT WAS TOO GOOD AN OFFER TO REFUSE. I became the first female chef to run a three Michelin starred restaurant, which was amazing but pressured, because I could also have been the first to lose them! But Gordon promoted me to chef patron, making me responsible for the whole restaurant.

OPENING MY RESTAURANT WAS A DREAM COME TRUE. I did everything myself; from hiring staff, to designing the plates. At Core, we serve haute British cuisine but in a relaxed atmosphere, as I hate stuffy dining rooms. I received two Michelin stars within the first year, and then this year I received my third. It made me realise all the hard work I’d put in had paid off.

RECEIVING AN MBE FOR MY SERVICES IN HOSPITALITY WAS A CAREER

HIGHLIGHT. It was completely unexpected and I was so proud to have that recognition. I’ll never forget receiving a call from Prince Harry and Meghan’s PA asking if I’d cook for their wedding. I can’t share what I made, but it wasn’t burgers and candy floss, as reported!

IT’S DIFFICULT FOR ME TO SWITCH OFF. I do enjoy walks with my husband, Grant, and our West Highland Terrier, Storm, but I still spend most days in the restaurant. I’m usually there until midnight and love seeing people leave smiling.

‘CARING FOR PEOPLE IS WHAT HOSPITALITY IS ABOUT’

DURING THE PANDEMIC, IT DIDN’T FEEL RIGHT TO SIT BACK AND DO

NOTHING. In the first lockdown, Core delivered 600 meals a week to hospitals, community centres and schools. Recently, we’ve launched Core At Home, so people can still enjoy our food. Caring for people is what hospitality is about; we just have to find new ways to do it right now.

I FOUND BEING NAMED THE WORLD’S ‘BEST FEMALE CHEF’ IN 2018 PATRONISING BECAUSE MY GENDER HASN’T CONTRIBUTED TO MY ROLE. A younger me probably wouldn’t have accepted the accolade, but someone once told me: ‘If you don’t like how you’re labelled, it won’t change unless you say something about it,’ So, when I did accept it, I spoke about my hope that, one day, we won’t need gender-specific awards.

NEVER BE AFRAID TO MAKE MISTAKES. You won’t discover new things otherwise. I’d rather be someone who can say, ‘I shouldn’t have done that’ than ‘I wish I’d done that’. corebyclaresmyth.com