GREAT AMERICAN ROADS THAT AREN’T ROUTE 66
Nothing wrong with the well-worn old road from Chicago to LA, but plenty of the less-obvious alternatives are more fun
FOR VISITING BRITS, riding in America is dominated by the lure of Route 66. It was known as the Mother Road and in its heyday back in the 1930s was seen as a gateway to the West. Families from Chicago and the surrounding areas would load up their cars and drive the 2500 miles to Los Angeles in search of a better life. As a pillar of the America Dream, the road was iconic.
It still is. Despite its replacement by the interstate and the fact that half of it doesn’t exist any more, bikers from all over the world flock to ride it, often on Harleydavidsons and more often than not as part of a guided tour.
There’s nothing wrong with any of that, but America’s a big country, with thousands miles of road. Some of it runs through incredible, desolate scenery that can often take a bit more effort to discover.
Here we look at just some of the roads that make up the great American riding map. So book a flight, rent a bike (or ship your own), and we’ll see you there ....
Million Dollar Highway
While the road – officially known as Route 550 – runs all the way from Bernalillo in New Mexico to Montrose in Colorado, it’s the stretch from Silverton to Ouray that is most commonly referred to as the Million Dollar Highway (though we’d say the stretch from Durango to Silverton is equally spectacular).
The nickname was given for the priceless nature of the views, with the road winding its way through the Uncompahgre Gorge and San Juan National Forest, where remains of old silver mines can still be seen on the hillside. Ride the road in the autumn and the colours of the trees make it look even more spectacular.
For those interested in off-roading, there are also some brilliant trails in this area; notably Cinnamon and Engineers Pass, which are both above 12,000 feet.
Tail of the Dragon
Leading off the Blue Ridge Parkway, at Deals Gap, this road has 318 corners in 11 miles. Hit it at the wrong time and you’ll spend most of your ride crawling behind a Harley or a camper van. The police also make their presence known, as do the photographers set up
“In the autumn it looks even more spectacular”
along the route, keen to sell you a photo of yourself online at the end of the day.
A number of motorcycle-only campsites can be found in the area, such as our favourite, Iron Horse in Stecoah.
Scenic Byway 12
A winding 122-mile road, beginning near Bryce Canyon National Park and finishing at the town of Torrey, Utah. Despite low speed limits and busy peak-season traffic, it’s worth it. The route is a combination of twisting corners, incredible rock formations and spectacular drop-offs. At times it passes through forest, ranging in height from 5223ft to 9636ft, with small communities dotted along the route providing great food and lodging. The road from Torrey east to Hanksville is also worth riding. In fact, Utah in general is just a great place to ride.
Pacific Coast Highway
Many think of Highway 1 as being the bit between Los Angeles and San Francisco. That stretch of road is the most busy,
sometimes too busy to enjoy. North of San Francisco, however, is another story, the 900 miles or so of road running most of the way up to the Canadian border, passing through California, Oregon and Washington as it does so.
Not only is the road much quieter here, but also it can be more dramatic, passing through towering redwood forests and small fishing communities offering a laid-back vibe. The route is also popular with touring cyclists, especially from Europe, so expect plenty of camping and lodging facilities. Make your way up to Astoria and visit the Goonies house.
Trans-america Trail
The TAT as it’s most commonly known isn’t a single road, rather a network of roads, mapped out by enthusiastic trail rider Sam Correro, who sells route maps on his website (www.transamtrail.com). What you’re letting yourself in for is almost 5000 miles of off-roading, with your wheels barely touching tarmac between the starting point in North Carolina and the finishing point in Oregon. The first stretch through the Midwest can be a little flat, but once into Colorado and Utah the route is a feast of remote mountain passes and desert views, with some trickier sections along the way. If you’re seeking a true America adventure, away from the traffic and the people, then this is the trail for you.
Alaska Highway
The Alaska Highway was built at the height of the Second World War as a response to fears of Russia invading through Alaska. The incredible engineering
“If you’re really lucky you may see a grizzly bear”
project resulted in 1700 miles of road being built in just eight months, through some of the most inhospitable terrain imaginable. For a long time the road wasn’t paved, but it was gradually improved and it now has smooth tarmac for most of its length. The road starts in Dawson Creek, British Columbia, and finishes in Delta Junction, Alaska. There is fuel and lodging at least every 60 miles, but for the most part you’re riding through the wilderness of Canada and Alaska. The road can get busy with motorhomes at the height of summer, so for a quieter ride aim for May or September. Consider riding the Alaska Highway up and the more remote Cassiar Highway down.
Beartooth Highway
This 68-mile byway in the north of the country winds its way through south-west Montana and north-west Wyoming and into Yellowstone National Park by its north-east entrance. On this road you can expect alpine plateaux, glacial lakes, forested valleys, waterfalls and wildlife, along with plenty of switchbacks to keep you on your toes. The road closes for the winter months, giving some indication of the type of conditions you’ll face. There aren’t many amenities along the route, just plenty of places to pull over to take photographs and soak in the surroundings.
Once in Yellowstone, you’ll be spoilt by its vast open plains, which are full of wildlife. Buffalo and elk are common and often take to the road. Don’t be surprised to find a herd of buffalo wandering towards you as you sit nervously on your bike, in the sometimes immense queues of RVS. It’s not uncommon to see bears in the more wooded areas, and if you’re really lucky you may get a sighting of a grizzly.
There are hundreds of geysers and thermal features within the park, with Old Faithful being the most famous and most visited. It erupts occur several times a day, sending water up to 140ft into the air. You never have long to wait between eruptions, so park your bike, grab an ice cream and take one of the many benches that surround the old boy, while you wait for the show to begin.