What to look out for...
Owners and mechanics highlight the weak spots
1 ENGINE Nothing to see here, move along. Not one owner we spoke to had a bad word to say about the engine and basic running gear. And none had suffered any significant breakdown.
2 KEYS Don’t lose them! Because of the built-in HISS immobiliser system, if you lose both keys then your ECU is scrap and will have to be replaced. You can get extra keys cut and coded by a Honda dealer so long as you have at least one key and the numberplate, so make sure you get both keys when you buy a used bike, and keep the spare somewhere safe. It might be worth getting an extra spare cut just in case.
3 LUGGAGE Unsurprisingly, lots of owners want the ability to load up for their holidays. Givi systems are by far the favourites, except for those owners who managed to get a good deal on otherwise pricey standard kit straight from the dealers. Beware, though – for some reason, the second-gen has a reduced luggage carrying capacity of 18kg compared with the original bike’s 33kg. No one seems to know why - and bear in mind this includes the weight of the luggage itself. It’s a very low limit for what Honda call, ‘an adventure sport tourer.’ Add in an overall carrying capacity of 192kg for pre-2015 and 195kg for post-2015 and you need to think carefully before giving a lift to your fat mate, especially as some owners reported high speed wobbles (at highly illegal speeds) with full luggage fitted...
4 ELECTRICS Mostly good so far, though early bikes are starting to show signs of corroded connectors and bad earth points. Catch it in time and it’ll be no big problem. There have been at least a couple of cases of the loom rubbing on a radiator mount on the left side, and potentially shorting out - worth checking. There’s a tilt sensor under the tail which cuts off the ignition if the bike falls over. That’s good, but many owners don’t know that in order to reset it, you have to turn the ignition all the way off, then on again. Otherwise the bike simply won’t restart. Heated grips are criticised by some for not being hot enough adding handguards helps. Also, it’s worth noting that the grips default to their last setting each time you turn the bike on - so if you left them on minimum, that’s where they’ll resume.
5 CLOCKS Several owners complain that their clocks mist up in wet weather - especially on later models. A couple had succeeded in getting them changed under warranty, but others had seen their claims turned down. At the very least, avoid pointing a jetwash anywhere near the clocks...
6 FINISH Most owners are happy with the general finish of their bikes, but a few all-weather riders report problems with flaking engine paint, chipping fork legs and general corrosion. Exhaust clamps also have a habit of falling apart with rust. The ‘stupidly short’ front mudguard is universally criticised, as it lets the whole engine get covered with
crud – fitting an extender makes a huge difference/ A rear hugger’s a sound idea, too, but some cheaper fibreglass huggers are a terrible fit and need significant work to stop them rubbing. Fragile panel lugs are singled out for criticism, but it’s more a case of them being fiddly. For each tank panel, for example, you need to remove the clips, then slide the panel back a few mm to disengage it before it comes off cleanly.
7 CHAIN First, don’t over-tighten the chain - you’ll restrict suspension movement and badly affect the handling. There should be 30-40mm of freeplay at the tightest point. Owners are split between those who complain that they have to adjust and lube the chain all the time, and those who’ve fitted an automatic chain-oiler. Scottoiler systems are predictably popular, but several owners recommend a simple system from Slovakia called the Nemo 2 - you fill a small oil reservoir on the handlebars, and twist the cap to pressurise the oil so it flows on to the chain as you ride. One half twist is enough for up to 200 miles. Visit www.cobrra.sk/en for more details. It’s definitely worth the investment - either system is around £99, but a new genuine chain and sprockets will set you back an eye-watering £285. With a chain-oiler and the odd cleaning session you should easily get enough miles from a set to make up for your initial outlay.
8 SUSPENSION It’s basic. Very basic on early bikes. An upgrade to a better quality aftermarket shock (Nitron gets the nod from many) will make an enormous difference, along with a revalve of the forks. As owner Guy said after getting his suspension sorted with Racetech parts by PDQ, “My wallet’s four figures lighter, but my motorcycle is now awesome – I can now fly over sharp bumps without needing to shout ‘BRACE!’ as I approach.”
9 COMFORT The seat’s a bit hard, but the riding position’s OK so most people find it pretty comfy overall. A couple of owners say they put the adjustable seat on their second-gen bikes on the low position at the back, and the high position at the front, which stops them sliding forwards under braking. The seat can chafe the tank in the high position, by the way, so adding a clear protective film is a wise move. Most owners criticise the standard screen - Givi, Puig, Powerbronze and MRA alternatives are popular, but as ever it’s down to personal preference.
“If you lose both keys, your ECU will have to be replaced”