What to look out for...
Owners and mechanics highlight the weak spots
1 ENGINE This is a tough, well-proven engine, but there are a few niggles. The cam cover gasket is difficult to seal properly, especially around the cam position sensor - extra silicon grease helps on reassembly. Elsewhere, the water pump and oil pump are driven from the same spur and the seals can give up, so keep an eye out for the whiff of coolant after a ride. It’s quite a buzzy motor - you’ll have to live with that - but serious vibes may well be down to poorly balanced throttle bodies. Some owners reckon switching to a 15w/50 or 20w/50 oil ‘cures’ a lot of minor noise (though we can recommend not getting started on reading all the conflicting advice on various forums...). A ticking noise from the top end could be leaky exhaust header bolts (quite common don’t over-tighten though as it’s easy to strip the threads), or the automatic camchain tensioner just waiting to ratchet to the next position.
2 CLUTCH Some owners report problems with the clutch dragging when cold. This is to do with lack of lubrication to the clutch friction plates. It can be cured with a dealer modification - drilling extra holes in the clutch basket. It’s also possible to fit the improved slipper clutch from a 2015-on Versys 1000, giving a much lighter action and smoothing engine braking. It’s a simple swap, but costs over £400 if you buy those parts new, so best start scouring breakers for a Versys...
3 THROTTLE SENSOR Owner Bruno Lucidarme has a cautionary tale for those doing their own servicing: “When removing the airbox, don’t remove the sub-throttle sensor. It’s tempting because it is in the way of the throttle body clamps on the airbox. But if you remove it, it cannot be properly recalibrated and a dealer will need to install a new throttle body assembly.” That could set you back more than a grand, so be warned!
4 ELECTRICS The headlight comes in for criticism. “It’s absolutely fine, as long as you don’t want to use it in the
dark...” said one owner. Several swear by uprated LED bulbs, and a few have gone down the HID route. Generally, electrics aren’t a bother, but there were a few reports of reg/rec failure leading to major problems if not caught in time. Installing a voltage monitor is a wise precaution, as is checking, cleaning and protecting connections to the reg/rec. 5 MODIFICATIONS The seat on early models in particular seems to be OK for an hour or two, but after that the foam collapses and the hurt sets in. There’s a factory gel version, but custom gel or memory foam inserts are popular (try www.tonyarcher.co.uk). There are also aftermarket options - Sargent seem popular (www.sargentcycle.co.uk). Screens are down to individual size, riding style and taste. A simple taller screen is enough for many riders, but a double-bubble from Puig or MRA gets the nod from taller riders. A front mudguard extender is essential otherwise the radiator and downpipes get plastered, the original is so short. A rear hugger is a wise move, too. And the majority of owners opt for a chain oiler to extend chain life and reduce hassle. Another popular mod is to raise the gearing - it’s so low as standard you’ll be looking for seventh gear on motorways. 6 BRAKES Pretty good on early bikes and very good from 2014 on, with the better calipers. A change to HH pads gives more power at the expense of some feel. If you want to go the whole hog, though, you can fit larger discs from a ZX-10R, or monoblock Brembos from a late-model Suzuki GSX-R.
7 SUSPENSION AND TYRES Pretty basic on early models. The rear shock is over-soft, and it’s hard to adjust the spring preload. An aftermarket replacement is the best answer, with Hagon and Nitron among the most popular. The 2014 model got revised spring rate and damping and an easy-access remote preload adjuster, which makes a big difference. It’s also worth stripping and re-greasing suspension pivots and linkages, as well as head bearings – they’re under-lubed at the factory. Nobody likes the original equipment Bridgestone tyres - Michelin and Metzeler alternatives are the main choices. Many recommend changing the rear for a 55 profile rather than the standard 50, to improve turn-in and make the speedo a bit more accurate.
8 FINISH A good few grumbles about this - easily scratched bodywork, bar end weights rusting, fasteners corroding, etc. Most owners agree you need to invest a bit of time and care in cleaning and keeping on top of it before it gets out of hand, especially if you’re an all-weather rider.
“You can fit larger brake discs from a Kawasaki ZX-10R”