Extreme travel
Whether on two or four wheels, the frozen ends of the Earth are unforgettable places
IPLACED THE WORRYINGLY triangular-shaped hood over my head, tied the cord around my neck and that night - for the first time since I was a child - I prayed. This time it was not for the life of my sick dog, but for my bladder to stay strong!
It was -30°C and, along with some adventurous rally-driving companions, I was camping on the Dempster Highway in conditions three times colder than your average freezer. Wrapped up in my Canadian army bivvy bag, I watched as my breath landed, then froze, on the material that was keeping me inches away from total congelation. That’s when I tucked my head into the bag and vowed that, no matter how strong the urge became, the call of nature could wait!
Two years previously I had been in similar conditions in Antarctica with my trusty motorbike - Rhonda the Honda. Though I had planned to ride AROUND the world, I had never expected to go from the bottom all the way to top as well.
The Arctic Circle was not on my hit list. The frozen wintery roads were way beyond my riding capability and definitely past my endurance levels. Sir Ranulph Fiennes, I am not! However, when the opportunity arose to join a couple of Canadians on a truck expedition into the Northern Territories, I jumped at the chance.
The North is a mysterious part of Canada that few will ever visit. Often referred to as the ‘frozen wasteland’, none of us was prepared for the beauty hidden within this vast and unforgiving wintery beast. The hot springs melt the ice in parts of the river along the Dempster Highway and create a spectacular display as steam rises up invitingly into the cold air. The mountains engulf you in white and rugged beauty that leaves you speechless: unapologetically in-your-face and untouched by man.
Driving on to the 170km stretch of ice road between Inuvik and Tuktoyaktuk felt wrong to start with - very wrong - but we soon hit our stride. Tuk can only be reached by air during the summer months, but in the winter the mighty Mckenzie River and the Arctic Sea freeze over to become a rather dramatic road into this small community. This place is about as remote as it gets. It was a beautiful, out-of-this-world experience - as if we were driving on the moon. However, stopping took a little practice and corners were interesting, but doughnuts were easy, and boy, was it fun!
This frozen land is warmed only by the communities that live here. If you could get here, Inuvik and Dawson City would make wonderful riding destinations in the summer months. Here you find wildlife, adventure and, of course, the famous Sour
“I saw my breath land, then freeze, inside my bivvy bag”
Toe Cocktail, all year round. Perhaps one day I will return for the summer version on two wheels but for now, back with Rhonda in British Columbia, I saddle up once more and head east towards the Prairies.