Tankbag tour: Hexham
From Hadrian’s Wall to the Lakes on some of the UK’S finest, and most challenging, roads
THERE’S A WILD, untamed beauty to the Pennines. They were named after Italy’s Apennine mountains by the Romans who manned the wall their emperor Hadrian built here to guard the frontier – but for today it’s the roads rather than the history that concerns us. From narrow, gravelly single-track roads to broad, well-surfaced hairpins, these high hills deliver views and riding on a level you don’t find in many corners of the country.
Our route sets out from Hexham (a handy base if you do want to take in a bit of Roman heritage) and heads to the spectacular Hartside Pass, down to Ullswater in the Lake District and over Kirkstone Pass. It returns to Hexham through the Yorkshire Dales, Teesdale and over Killhope Summit, England’s highest A-road. We normally try to plan bikes to suit all bikes – and you could ride any bike on these roads, but they do really suit adventure bikes.
STAGE ONE Hexham to Melmerby 45 miles
Leave Hexham on the B6305 – from the lights in the town centre it’s signed for Alston (A686) and Allendale (B6259). After five and a half miles, by a farm on a tight left-hander, turn right to stay on the B6305. At the A686, turn left to Alston. After four miles, in the 30mph limit for Whitfield, turn right on the minor road to Haltwhistle. Turn left at the T-junction, and after two miles turn right to Haltwhistle. At the A69, turn left to Carlisle and after half a mile turn left again, towards Alston. When you meet the A689, turn left to Slaggyford. Carry on to the A686, turning right to Penrith to cross Hartside Pass. If you want an early coffee, you can stop at the bike-friendly Hartside Café at the top of the pass, but we’d wait for Melmerby. Morning coffee The Old Village Bakery Tucked away on the far side of the Melmerby’s village green is the Old Village Bakery – a shop with a very pleasant café. www.theoldvillagebakerymelmerby.co.uk
STAGE TWO Melmerby to Sedburgh 55 miles
Continue on the A686 to Penrith and, at the roundabout, turn right on the A66 towards the M6 – but cross the motorway, staying on the A66 towards Workington. At the next roundabout, turn
left on the A592 to Ullswater. At the T-junction, turn right to Patterdale and stay on this road (which is still the A592) over Kirkstone Pass to Windermere. Turn left at the mini-roundabout on the A591 to Kendal. At the major roundabout take the first exit for the A5284 to Kendal. Cross the town following signs for the A684 and take this road to Sedburgh. Lunch Three Hares Café Sedburgh’s charming Three Hares Café has good food at sensible prices. It’s on the main street. www.threeharescafe.co.uk
STAGE THREE Sedburgh to Middleton in Teesdale
40 miles Carry on through Sedburgh on the main road – but don’t miss the right turn to stay on the A684 towards Hawes. After 10 miles, turn left on the B6259 to Kirkby Stephen. At the lights in Kirkby Stephen, turn right to Brough on the A685. In Brough, turn right by the clock tower and a mile later, turn left on the B6276 to Middleton in Teesdale. When it meets the B6277, turn left to go into Middleton, turning left on the main street.
Afternoon coffee Café 1618 Friendly, compact café on the right (quite near the bank, if you need a cashpoint). Good coffees and a serious flapjack (or a cream tea if the diet’s not working). www.cafe1618.com
STAGE FOUR Middleton in Teesdale to Hexham
55 miles Carry on along the B6277 towards Alston. After seven miles (just after the Langdon Beck pub by the bridge) turn right on the minor road to St John’s Chapel. Turn left at the A689, towards Alston again – don’t miss the left-hand fork three miles later to stay on the A689. After another five miles, near the bottom of a steep hill, turn right on the minor road to Carr Shields. After a mile and a half, turn right to Allenheads. At the next T-junction, turn right again and when reaching the crossroads in Allenheads, go straight over on the back road to Rookhope. Follow the road until it meets the A689 – this time turning left to Stanhope. Turn left by the pub on the B6278 to Edmundbyers. Three miles later, turn left on the minor road to Blanchland. In Blanchland, go straight on the B6306, to return to Hexham.