Buying decent bike kit
There’s riding gear out there to suit all styles of riders and all kinds of budgets. But it’s not just about looking the part: bike kit has a very serious job to do as well. Here’s what to look for when looking to buy your first set of motorcycle clothing
THERE’S MORE THAN safety to consider when choosing the right kit. Comfortable gear will be so much better over long distances than stuff that just look good but doesn’t function efficiently and it needs to work well together – jackets with gloves, boots with trousers. But at the end of the day it also has to be protective.
Consider what kind of riding you’ll do. All-year riders would probably be best with a textile suit. Sporty summer riders will be better with leathers (either a two-piece or a one-piece suit for track use). For a lot of road riders, a textile jacket with leather trousers is ideal – but there’s a trend for retro-styled jackets, worn with armoured jeans, that can look as good off the bike as on it. The key is to find the kit that works for you. For a first helmet, you can’t go wrong with a full-face lid. Buying online won’t work here: go to a shop and try several on, as you need to get the best shape (as well as the best size) for your head. Keep it on for a few minutes and pop some gloves on to make sure you can open the visor and vents easily. If the helmet is pressing anywhere on your head, it’s too
small. If you can hold the chin bar and spin it on your head or, even worse, hold the base at the back and roll it off your head, it’s too large.
A ratchet or buckle-type strap is easy to use but must be adjusted regularly to keep it fitting securely. A traditional double-d-ring chin strap is more secure. Polycarbonate helmets are less expensive but also heavier (which is bad). Fibre-based lids are stronger and lighter but they are also more expensive. A removeable lining is a good feature, as it can be washed to keep the lid fresh. Drop-down sun visors can be effective, but being able to swap your clear visor for a dark one makes sunny days better. An anti-fog insert is a very good thing.
Jackets £80-£1100
The main choice here is between leather and textile. Leather jackets won’t be waterproof but should be tougher and are often stylish. Textiles jackets should have a breathable waterproof liner to keep you dry (not sweaty), a removeable thermal liner for cold days and vents for hot ones, plus more pockets. Any bike jacket should have CE approved armour in the shoulders and elbows. All will have a pocket for a back protector – but many will just have a bit of foam in it, not a Ce-approved item. Budget for adding one (or buying a separate one) as a back protector is vital.
Make sure a jacket fastens securely around the neck without choking you or restricting movement. Make sure the arms are long enough and cuffs will go over your gloves. Look for adjusting straps to prevent the body and arms being baggy and flapping in the wind.
Short jackets are better for sportsbikes as the material doesn’t bunch up around your stomach when you lean forward, but longer ones can keep you warmer and drier. A zip to connect to your trousers to keep the jacket from riding up in an accident or the trousers from falling down when you walk.
Trousers £75-£700
As with the jackets, the first choice is on what material: leather; traditional heavy textile (like Cordura); or denim with an abrasion-resistant liner. Again, what’s right comes down to use. Bike jeans may be fine for a Friday jaunt to the local bike meet, leathers offer the best protection and some sets have kneesliders for use on track, but textiles offer the versatility for year-round riding.
Fit around the waist and leg length are important, but crouch down (or sit on a
bike) to see if the knee armour is in the right place for you – if not, can it be adjusted? Armour should be CE rated and while knee armour is standard, hip armour – which we recommend using – is often not included. If it can be added, check how much it costs. Always make sure the legs go over your chosen boots and that the connecting zip does fit with the one in your jacket.
Gloves £30-£200
Fit can be tricky, as everyone’s hands are slightly different. Leather is always best for toughness, with hard knuckle armour offering better protection than a soft pad on the knuckles. Armour on the wrist and scaphoid sliders on the palm are good – especially on thin leather summer gloves, as that thin leather will wear through quickly in a crash. We recommend gloves that fasten with two straps: one at the wrist, that will hold it securely on the hand; and one on the cuff to keep out draughts.
Thin leather gloves have the best feel but are often not waterproof – many riders will need a second, waterproof set. These come in a range of thicknesses – from fairly thin to very thick and well insulated. If you plan to ride in winter, get a thick pair of gloves but they will offer less feel for the controls and will be too hot in warmer weather.
Boots £50-£400
If bike boots pinch your feet, they just don’t fit – they won’t give and break in. Some race boots feel odd to walk in but are great on the bike. Heavily armoured motocross boots are very protective, so are ideal off-road – but they also restrict movement and feel, so are bad for riding on the road. Look for boots with a grippy sole, shin armour, solid reinforcement at the ankle and heel, with a solid toe area – with toe sliders for sportier riders. A waterproof membrane is essential for year-round or touring riders and even sporty boots can have one.
One-piece leathers £450-£1500
Getting the right fit is vital. While off-the-peg suits are good value they have to fit different shapes and sizes, so may use panels of stretch fabric which is weaker than leather. Always try a suit on with a separate back protector. Made-to-measure suits should fit perfectly, but cost a lot more.
What? £1-£100
Ear plugs are a must, to protect your hearing and they don’t have to cost a lot. They don’t cut out all the noise, but do limit your exposre to the most damaging upper and lower frequencies. There are many types of disposable ear plug, so try a tester pack to find the ones that work best and are most comfortable for your ears. At greater cost, made-to-measure ear plugs really will minimise the dangerous levels of noise you’re exposed to when riding.
Waterproofs £25-£100
If you’re wearing leathers, armoured riding jeans or any non-waterproof textiles, a waterpoof oversuit can be a godsend. The rubberised material keeps water out then dries quickly, unlike most textiles – great if you’re riding the next day. Two-piece waterproofs are usually easier to get on, while one-piece waterproof oversuits may keep the water out even more effectively. Waterproofs need to be large enough go over your gear and long enough not to ride up when your legs are bent, but not so big they flap a lot when riding.
“If the armour isn’t Ce-approved, it’s not really armour”