One-day Ride: Fort William ...................
It’s one of British biking’s must-visit destinations – along with the Isle of Skye
THE WEST COAST of Scotland is simply amazing if you ride bikes. The scenery is on a scale you don’t find anywhere else in the UK and the roads are equally heroic. Miles of fabulously twisty tarmac with a milliondollar backdrop: it’s irresistible. Come the summer-holiday period, those roads do get busy, compared with how they are for the rest of the year but compared with other parts of the UK, they’re still blissfully quiet.
Inverness may be the capital of the Highlands, but the gateway to this motorcycling paradise is Fort William. To be frank, it doesn’t have the greatest reputation as a biking destination: it seems everyone you talk to will recommend somewhere else; somewhere smaller or quainter or quieter. And if you can get a room in a smaller, quainter, or quieter place, why not? But we’re looking for a touring base with decent facilities, not a second home, so Fort Bill - with its petrol stations, restaurants and lots of hotels and B&BS - is on the money.
This one-day ride based around Fort William takes in two of Scotland’s finest roads: the A87, the road to the Isles, and the A830 to Mallaig. In between, it loops out over the majestic Isle of Skye. Taken as the middle day of a long weekend, it’s a perfect introduction to this fabulous corner of the country – and enough to make anyone recommend a trip to Fort William.
STAGE ONE Fort William to Mallaig 45 miles
This initial leg of the journey is straightforward: take the A82 across Fort William and at the roundabout by the BP garage on the edge of town, turn left on the A830 to Mallaig. Then enjoy more than 40 of the most scenic miles in the UK – keep an eye out for the curved viaduct at Glenfinnan, often used as a film location. In Mallaig, go straight to the ferry terminal for the Armadale ferry. TIP Book your ferry at www.calmac. co.uk before even setting off for Fort William. To do this full route you’ll need to be on the 9:40am crossing and in summer, ferries may get fully booked. It costs £4.70 for a bike plus £2.80 per adult; so that’ll be £7.50 for a solo rider or £10.30 for a pillion couple.
Morning coffee: An Cala Café, Mallaig There’s always a bit of waiting for the ferry so grab a coffee from the An Cala café on the harbour.
STAGE TWO Armdale to Uig 80 miles
Get off the ferry at Armadale and follow the A851 to Broadford. When it meets the A87, turn left towards Portree. After 18 miles, turn left in Sligachan on the A863 to Dunvegan. Ride through the village and turn right on the A850 to Portree. When this meets the A87, turn left to Uig. If you need petrol, follow the signs for the Uig ferry terminal: the petrol station’s opposite but don’t head off too fast as this is also close to the midday stop. Lunch: The Sheiling There is a café attached to the petrol station, but take the minor road to the right of it: 100m up is The Sheiling, with Ella’s Café serving great rolls and home-made cakes. www.sheiling.net
STAGE THREE Uig to Dornie 70 miles
From Uig pier, ride back towards the village centre and turn left on the A855 to Kilmuir and Staffin. After a mile (on a gentle left-hand bend after the hairpin) turn right on the minor road signed for “Staffin via the Quiraing”. This is a wildly-scenic but narrow, occasionally rough singletrack road. When it meets the A855 again, turn right to Staffin. In Portree, pick up the A87 back to Broadford, over the Skye Bridge and back towards Fort William.
Afternoon tea: Eilean Donan When it comes to an afternoon tea stop, there can be only one: Eilean Donan is the castle from the Highlander film. You can use the visitor centre’s excellent café without buying a ticket for the castle (but on a shorter day trip, it’s well worth a visit). www.eileandonancastle.com
STAGE FOUR Dornie to Fort William 65 miles
Continue along the A87 towards Fort William. Don’t miss the left-hand turn (nine miles after the Cluanie Inn) to stay on the A87 to Invergarry. When it meets the A82, turn right and enjoy the ride all the way back to the centre of Fort Bill.