The Auvergne

Volcanic hills give rise to gently undulating, flowing roads cutting through lush countryside

TO SAY THAT there’s good riding in the Massif Central – the huge range of low mountains, high hills and dormant volcanoes in the heart of France – is to undersell the attraction of the region. For one thing, it’s huge so there are miles of amazing roads to explore; for another, it’s quiet, especially as you get further from the beaten track. We base our riding here around the town of Issoire, just south of Clermont-ferrand; much smaller but equally well placed. To the east are the wooded Livradois hills, to the west Puy de Dôme and the dormant volcanoes. Whichever way you go, there’s fantastic riding. Hotel tip: Le Pariou (www.hotel-pariou.com)

OFF THE BIKE LES PUYS

The centre of the Auvergne is dominated by a chain of extinct volcanoes, known as Puy. The Puy de Pariou is the most typical shape and a two-hour roundtrip. Have an easier time at the Puy de Sancy. It is the highest in the area but easier, thanks to a cable car. Stunning views. (www.auvergne-tourism.com)

PILGRIMS START HERE

Le Puy-en-velay is the start point of the pilgrims’ path to Santiago de Compostela in Spain so there are plenty of religious monuments, like the Chapel Saint Michel d’aiguilhe, a church perched on a rocky pinnacle. (www.ot-lepuyenvelay.fr)

MONTPEYROUX

This fortified village, south east of Clermont-ferrand, ‘glows’ due to the local ‘coppery’ sandstone and Romanesque tower. (www.montpeyroux63.com)

A COLD SHOWER?

The cascade du Queureuilh are two waterfalls just north of Mont-dore. The nearest one is the most impressive and it’s a 2km walk from the car park. (www.sancy.com)

HENRI MALARTRE MUSEUM

A vehicle museum just north of Lyon with a substantial collection of bikes from 100 years ago righthand, hand gearchange? There’s a 400hp armoured Mercedes parade car used by Hitler and the first FWD car. (www.musee-malartre.com/ malartre/sections/fr/le_ musee_et_vous/les_ collections_du_m)