The Limousin

If you're a fan of food or of ancient architecture, then this is the region for you

EAST OF THE Auvergne is the least populous part of the French mainland: the Limousin. The hills are lower and more richly wooded, the roads even quieter. There are ancient halftimbered towns to explore, quiet castles and amazing food – the Périgord region is famous for its truffles… We’ve based our routes here around the easily-reached village of St Étienne-de-fursac, but if you wanted to range further south, we’d consider staying in Brantôme or Treignac. Hotel tip: Hotel Nougier (www.hotelnougier.fr)

OFF THE BIKE ORADOUR-SUR-GLANE

A fascinating but somber memorial – a village wiped-out by the Waffen SS in 1944, preserved in a desolate condition. There’s a pleasant modern village next to it though, with good facilities when you need a pick-me-up after your visit (www.oradour.info).

POTTERING ON

Limoges was historically the centre of France’s fine china trade and, with plenty of souvenirs to fill your panniers, it offers several fascinating museums on the subject. Try Musee Adrien Dubouche (www.museeadriendubouche.fr) or Les Four des Casseaux (https:// museedescasseaux.com) for two excellent examples.

TRUFFLE HUNTING

The Périgord region of the Limousin is famous for its truffles, which you may find sold (to cook yourself or served-up in restaurants) in historic medieval towns like Brantôme and Perigueux – and the cathedral in Perigueux is also well worth a visit while you're at it.

PREHISTORIC MEN

Ancient Frenchmen developed graffiti in Lascaux, just south of Brive – a cave with more than 600 prehistoric paintings on the walls (www.lascaux.fr). Rival cavemen decorated nearby Les Combarelles (www.sites-leseyzies.fr), creating the first ancient grafitti battle.

CHATEAUX

No shortage of castles in this area, just because this isn’t the Loire. From older ones once owned by Richard the Lionheart to the stately Arnac-pompadour, Rochebrune and Rochechouart examples (the latter home to a modern-art gallery), there are plenty of châteaux to see for fans of ancient architecture.