The Rhône Alps

These mountains have everything – from miracles to majestic passes

THE ALPS IS a huge range of mountains, running in an arc from the Mediterranean up, along the France/italy border, through Switzerland and into Austria. France’s western Alps hold some of the most memorable riding – especially in this northern corner of the Rhone Alps, in Haut Savoie and Savoie.

This is where you pick up the Route des Grandes Alpes. It’s a series of interconnecting roads from Lake Geneva down to the sea, clambering over the great passes – including the highest in Europe, the 2770m Col de l’iseran. The Route is 430 miles of undiluted, uninterrupted brilliance.

But there’s far more to riding here than just the one route. It can’t take in all the passes and skips some of our favourites – the wildly scenic Col du Petit St Bernard or Col du Mont Cenis that cross to Italy, the challenging Col du Chaussy and Alpe d’huez. It misses out the Vercors, as well as the Chartreuse mountains to the north of Grenoble. There’s so much here that one trip – one route – is never enough.

PLACES TO STAY GRENOBLE

The biggest city in the French Alps has all the facilities you could possibly need and is easy to reach (masochists can get there in a motorway day, with an early start). It’s also the gateway to the mountains in the region.

Hotel tip: Le Relais de Sassenage (www.relais-sassenage.com)

BOURG ST MAURICE

An unspoilt town in the Tarantaise valley, which leads to Val d’isere – but while the ski town largely shuts in summer, Bourg continues to bustle. Surrounded by amazing passes.

Hotel tip: Hotel Arolla (www.hotel-arolla.fr)

BRIANÇON

It’s half the size of Grenoble, but Briançon bills itself as the highest city in Europe. It’s a lovely old town, with plenty of hotels and restaurants, and it’s right in the heart of the Alps.

Hotel tip: Hotel Vauban (www. hotel-vauban-briancon.com)

LE BOURG-D’OISANS

Sleepy village in the valley below Alpe d’huez – so popular with cyclists, with good facilities for those of us on proper bikes…

Hotel tip: Hotel Oberland (bourgdoisans.com/noesit/!/ fiche/hotel-loberland-92057)

OFF THE BIKE WALKING WITH LLAMAS

A quick mountain hike is fun, but hiking with llamas is better. Guide Gilles runs mountain tours and everybody gets a friendly llama to lead along. Best selfies ever. (www.lamas-de-valloire.fr)

LA ROTONDE

After Chambery’s gothic and medieval architecture, and sweet treats at Cedric Pernot, check out La Rotonde museum, the world’s biggest roundhouse. (www.chambery-tourisme.com)

MEGEVE

Megève is a beautiful ski resort, that is attractive in the summer too. Grab a coffee in one of the fashionable bars frequented by Jean Cocteau and Rita Hayworth. (www.savoie-mont-blanc.com)

GOING UNDERGROUND

Get down at the Grottes de Saint Christophe on a 90-minute walk around part of the 240km of limestone caves. (www. grottes-saint-christophe.com)

CHARTREUSE CELLARS

Monks at Chartreuse distillery and cellars - the longest liqueur cellar in the world - have tours and tastings at the ready. (www.chartreuse.fr)

FLYING HIGH

The Eagles of Leman is a bird of prey centre in Sciez with more than 120 raptors, working with knights on horseback. (lesaiglesduleman.com)

CHÂTEAU D’ANNECY

This 13th-century castle and former home to Count Geneva is now a nice-sized gallery with an eclectic mix of art and artefacts. (www.musees.agglo-annecy.fr)

LA BASTILLE

For stunning views of Grenoble and surrounding mountains, take the world’s first urban cable-car to the fortress on the hill. (www.bastille-grenoble.fr)

EVIAN

You’ve drunk the water, now drink in the sights of this beautiful town shore. (evian-tourisme.com)